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Triangle Tube CC125 Condensing Boiler Short Cycling

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Hi,

I just want to thank everyone in advance for all your help. I bought a new home and it came with a Triangle Tube CC125 condensing boiler that was installed in 2013. It is a one loop system hooked up to one Grundfos UPS 15-58 pump. The system in question is on the first floor of a 2 family home. It is a quite small apartment, about 800-900 sq ft. in size. By my rough estimate, there is about 100 linear feet of radiator fins running through the apartment.

After reading and searching through this board, I think I am experiencing a short cycling problem. The heat curve is set at 120F minimum heat supply with upper limit set to 190F. The outdoor minimum temperature is set to 20F so anything less than that it should be running at 100% capacity. It is connected to a simple Honeywell programmable thermostat upstairs. The problem I am experiencing is that the heater would fire-up for 5 to 10 minutes before shutting down and going back to Fan pre-purge or post-purge cycle. I am a novice at this but I think it is going back into standby because the return water has reached the preset temperature set at the machine so it's shutting off.

In terms of the display on the machine, it shows stage 1 (pre-purge or post purge cycle) with the water temperature reading. Once the water temperature drops to around 120F, it would change to stage 2 (ignition sequence) for 1-2 seconds before going to stage 3 (Burner ON for space heating) and water temperature would reach 185-190F fairly quickly. It would stay at stage 3 for 5 - 10 minutes before going back to stage 1. I know the Thermostat is still calling for heat because if the room has reached the set temperature, the display would change to XXXP with no display on the Stage indicator. I have tried setting the pump to Low, Med and High but it still seem to be firing up for only a short time.

Is there anything I can do to fix this? Also, would a lower pump speed setting be better as to allow the heat to dissipate before returning back to boiler?

Thanks again!

Triangle Tube CC125 Boiler not reaching thermostat set temperature

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Hi,

I have a Triangle tube cc125 boiler on the 2nd and 3rd floor of a 2 family home located in Boston. The combined living area is about 1,200 - 1,300 sq ft. There is about 200 linear feet of baseboard radiator running on a single loop through the 2nd and 3rd floor house.

The problem I am having is the thermostat never reaching it's set temperature. The thermostat (Nest) is located near the end of the loop. It was set to 66F but the temperature hovers around 62-64F (when the outside temperature the last two days has been around 20F). The parameter on the boiler is set to: Set Point Temp: 190F; Min Supply Temp: 120F; Min Outside Temp: 20F; Max Outside Temp 64F. As it is not reaching the T-stat temperature, this results in the boiler burning almost 24 hours per day.

I set the pump to the lowest speed in hopes of dissipating more heat from the system before it returns to the boiler but not sure what else I can do here. Any help or insight into the setting is greatly appreciated.

P.S. this is different than the short-cycling problem I am experiencing with my other TT boiler.

Burnham Steam Boiler Help

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Hi all - new to this site and looking for boiler advice. Thanks in advance!

I have a Burnham low pressure boiler, steam heat, natural gas. The silver tag says: ANS Z21-13; 1989; Model no. 404B; serial no. 12 074015. I'm not sure when it was installed as it was in house when I bought it with no info. Any idea what year this is from? I can't find any info online for this.

Currently it will not stay on. I can light the pilot, turn it on, turn thermostat up, heat kicks on and all burner light up, and after about 2 minutes the whole thing, including the pilot kicks out. Seems like a safety feature, but i'm not sure what could be causing it to shut down. Anyone hear of something similar to this? I try this several times and get the same result. I've changed the thermocouple already.

Secondly, depending on the age of the unit (I'm guessing its at least 20 years old?), I'm wondering if I should invest in repairing the unit or if I should buy a new boiler for the house. If the best option is to buy a new boiler, curious what the best brands are that I should be looking at. Otherwise is there a part I should try replacing first, like the gas valve?

Other info: Boiler heats a 2 bedroom apt that is appx 950 sq ft. I shut it off in the summer since it only is used for the heat (hot water is separate). There are 4 radiators in the apt. The flue is connected to the chimney. I live in New England so currently its COLD! 18 degrees tonight....got space heaters going for my warmth, but a little nervous about the pipes freezing if I don't get this figured out quickly.

Temperature in house rises way above thermostat setting

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Every so often, the temperature on the 2nd floor of our house stays at 68 F (20 C) all night, even though the overnight setting on both thermostats of our houses' two-zone system is 64 (18 C) degrees. This happens quite irregularly; on most nights, the temperature falls normally to the set level. I am quite puzzled.

This can happen when the outside temperature is below freezing, as tonight. It is now 4 hours after the night setting kicked in, the setting has definitely not been altered (pressing "present setting" shows 64), and there is this 4-degree F differential. Incidentally, the temperature is holding stable at a level above even the day setting, which is 67.

Any clues as to what is going on?

Lennox el280uh 2 stage furnace

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had a 2 stage Lennox furnace installed Nov 2016. Also a Aprilaire 8466 thermostat. Furnace default with dip#1 on and only w1 wired causes the control module to run on low for 10 minutes before 2nd stage fires. Using both w1 & w2 wired stat will fire 2nd stage on recovery (+2 deg or more) but stays on stage one otherwise. Been here for 26 years. Original and first replacement were 110,000 btu single stage units and worked very well. Now the 2 stage unit on furnace control runs for 10 minutes then an additional 5+ on high just to maintain with 10-15 ambients. Using t'stat control (starts on 1st stage and stays there average 1 degree correction is 20+ minutes. AWFUL !!! Question is, does the Lennox need either w1 or w2 separately or in combination? I'd like to wire it to operate on 2nd stage only. O.K. over 35-40 deg ambient I'd take a hit but I can't imagine what this thing would do if we had a below zero spell like a couple years ago. FYI, if anyone's interested, both fuel and electric consumption is easily 20% higher than comparable years. Yes, I paid for a 2 stage but would be happy to eat the cost if I can just wire this to work as a 1 stage (on high). Thanks

The right boiler for the house

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I have been going back-and-forth with a couple different contractors to decide which boiler is the right one to go with. Right now the decision is between a navien ncb-e combi-boiler 150E or 180E. But I have also looked at Bosch Lochinvar and Rinnai trying to figure out which system is the right system. I have attached the heat loss calculation. This house has one bathroom minute and is located in the Worcester Massachusetts supply water temperature can get between 38 and 40 in the winter. Just looking to make sure I make the right decision.

Line Chimeny or Buy New Boiler?

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Hoping someone can offer guidance.

Purchased a house (1248 sq ft) that was built in 1950. The heating system is forced hot water that uses the baseboard radiators. Currently has a Vaillant Model No. F70-W-30 PP oil fired boiler that was converted to natural gas using a Wayne conversion burner. The original Vaillant boiler is at least 20/25 years old. The Wayne conversion burner was installed sometime between 2000 and 2006. It seems to run a lot and the temperature gauge seems to stay at 130 degrees. Isn’t that too low? A 20/25 year old boiler seems old to me – how long do these things last?? It seems to be using a lot of gas – 530 MCF in 30 days. The monthly bill seems extremely high to me.

Called a local HVAC company that does chimney cleaning to come out to inspect and clean the chimney just because I figured it hadn’t been done in years. They came back down and told us there are a number of issues with the chimney – mainly that there is no liner and there are cracks and spalling. They did take photos of the damage. We were told that a chimney liner should have been installed when the oil boiler was converted to gas and that it is not up to code. Not sure why one wasn’t installed when the conversion was done. It is a brick chimney. Is it true that it should be lined?

My thought is that we just forget about lining the chimney altogether and purchase a new direct vent boiler. One reputable HVAC company suggested a Utica UB90-100V boiler. He did a heat loss calculation etc. and seemed to be knowledgeable. It is a condensing boiler – are those good to use with baseboard radiators? Is Utica a decent brand – I don’t see much in the way of reviews. Is there a certain type/brand of boiler we should be looking at specifically for baseboard radiators?

Any help greatly appreciated - thanks!

Viessmann Control Console Swap

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Regarding a Vitodens 200-W WB2B natural gas boiler set up with an outdoor reset, low loss header to three zones and DHW loop to a Superstor.

Coding level 2, 38:33 fault - Viessmann tech support said to replace control unit and coding card.

Question: The old coding card is the same part number. If the old card is undamaged, will it contain all of the boiler's settings? Basically, will swapping out the control unit and using the old coding card work without having to reprogram the whole setup?

Thank you,
BOS

Loose wire? Or normal

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Hey guys, tried searching elsewhere and I couldn't find any answers.

I have an Empire RH-25-6 vent heater , and while trying to clear out some dust, a wire stuck to my duster and pulled out of the casing.

It was a slight maneauver, and I didn't have any resistance. My question is, is this wire supposed to be loose (the other end is plugged into something), or did I accidentally loosen it from wherever it was.

According to my manual, this would be the "electrode and wiring".

Thanks so much for any insight

Looking for Control replacement, Capable Controls?

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Hello, local peerless vendor doesn't have this in stock, anyone know if there's a universal? Tim are you online this morning? Thank you

Burnham Alpine Header Sensor

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I was wondering whether someone could tell me what the Header Sensor is used for. I noticed that my Boiler doesn't have one installed per the sensor status on the display. Is this of concern? I've searched high and low for the answer, and can't find anything. Thanks in advance.

Monoflo System

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About five years ago I added two new cast iron radiators to an existing monoflo system. The radiators are below the main piping. I did use the proper monoflo fittings as the system worked properly upon start up. The customer was not using the basement with the two added radiators. Simply shut off the valves to the radiators. This year he opened the valves and the two radiators would not heat. The rest of the radiators in the house are heating. I replaced the shut off valves to be sure they were not the issue. I even visually looked into the monoflo Ts and could not see any debris etc. When I opened the bleeders I did get water and no air. Lastly the feed valve did overfeed and caused the system pressure to exceed 30PSI. Replaced the feeder and bled air tank system pressure is now 20PSI when heating at 160 degrees. Looking for some Help!!

Navien NCB-180 fixes

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So I bought a house a couple years ago in Mass. A navien NCB-180 was already installed in the basement. The living area includes two floors (not counting the unheated basement). The two floors have separate zones, but we hardly even heat the second floor when the first floor is warm enough (the second floor is bedrooms and we like it cooler at night).

There are three bathrooms, but rarely would more than two be used at once (so just say two may be used in the morning).

I've had a few issues. First, the device short cycles in space heat mode, and I've seem to have finally figured out that the baseboards actually use very little heat, so the return water temp is close to the output (maybe 8degrees). Sometimes I get an E012 flame loss error after short cycling, and only when space heating is running. I'm wondering if there is a solution other than expanding the baseboards because the baseboards we have heat the place enough. Maybe the Navien wasn't the proper choice, but that's what we bought the house with.

Second, the DHW seems find but there are small temp fluctuations during use. I'm trying to figure out if that is normal, or if any adjustment might help.

General Zone valve's

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Please be advised that I am trying to locate two General Zon-Val, Zone Valve Power heads.
Please review and please advise if you have any available for sale or do you know where to purchase?
Thank you.
Andy Garcia

Embassy ONEX

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I know I got all the heating pros out there and you're the guys that know your stuff! Can I get some opinions on the Embassy ONEX boiler? Anyone install one and what are your likes and dislikes about it? Is there something else you'd install instead? I'm thinking of getting the ONEX and would love to hear some real world experiences with the unit. Thanks guys!

Boiler temp too high? Causing loud banging?

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I have a Lochnivar plus Knight wall mount boiler control module. It provides hot water to two hydronic radiant floor loops and the exchanger in the domestic hot water tank. It was working well for the first couple of years. Now the only defect is this: for a couple of years it is making loud explosive bangs at moments I can't predict. I recently sat next to it for 5 hours waiting in vain for a bang so I could see what the control screen said. Within a day it made 3 or 4 bangs in a half hour stretch while I was elsewhere in the house.
I called in the installing business but found out my installer was no longer working there, and the new person seemed to find nothing wrong. That business is not functioning any longer. I have the service manual, but of course user access to the settings is almost nonexistent; it allows only installer access.
Banging like that feels like something too hot encountering cold. This phenomenon is way worse in winter. What should I do?

DIY: Cleaning Buderus Boiler and Replacing Automatic Pilot

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I've neglected cleaning my Buderus boiler (G124X, conventional). The first few times I had a tech out they said it was very clean and these boilers tend not to accumulate dirt like others.

Fast forward about 6 years. There was a $75 cleaning special from a reputable company so I got it done. Once again, the guy was impressed with how clean it was and said he didn't even need his boiler brush.

A few months later I started having problems with the boiler not lighting. If I flip the emergency power switch, wait a few secs then reset, it starts just fine for a while. Happens maybe 1-2x month. The DHW zone is calling for heat, pump running, automatic draft vent open. Just no flame. There is no LED indicator on the auto-pilot assembly (Honeywell S8600H) but I can hear it making a slight buzz every few seconds. Tapping it when it's not lighting does not help. Had to do a reset.

Does it sound like the auto-pilot needs to be replaced?

Also, I'd like to DIY clean the boiler going forward. I took at closer look at the burner tubes and saw some dust and a loose chunk of sediment causing a yellow flame. Otherwise they were burning very blue. Now I'm wondering if the thing was ever thoroughly cleaned. If I do the auto-pilot, I'd like to do my own vacuuming of the inside, check the igniter connection, etc.

I plan on turning off power, turn off gas at the boiler valve, disconnect the gas connections (red arrows) and remove the screws (blue arrows). I'm thinking that should allow me to pull the burner assembly out of the boiler. Does this sound right?

Thanks.

Boiler pilot won't stay lite

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My Burnham boiler pilot will not stay lit, even after replacing the thermocouple twice, and the gas valve. The valve was replaced 3 weeks ago, and the pilot stayed lit until yesterday. The pilot went out again yesterday and the tech replaced thermocouple again, it stayed lit for about 20 min, and has gone out 3 more times in the last 8 hours. The tech noticed that the new valve seems to have a fault, as it will not switch to "off", only "on" or "pilot" but I don't think this is the cause of the pilot not staying lit. The gas valve will be replaced again, and the tech said he hopes this will solve the issue, but honestly I don't think the valve the issue. When the pilot is lite, the flame is blue and consistent. Everything I have researched leads to changing the thermocouple and gas valve, so I am really at a loss trying to solve this.

TM9x080b12mp11a Luxaire /York condensate issues

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Had a new customer call today with a York/ Luxaire LX series furnace. This is not our install, a local guy installed a few and then went out of business. So I get the after hours call..... It is the newer series with the clear condensate box. Condensate had gotten into the pressure tube. I cleared all the condensate out, drains pan, removed inducer, checked for proper venter re-stricter. They used 1/2" pvc short drain all appear installed ok. My question is has anyone had issues with these units. I knew I didn't find the smoking gun, and was correct have a second call back. Any info would be appreciated. Forgot also lifted pressure tube up so condensate doesn't gather in it, and bent turbulators straight down behind the venter.
Denny

Display Troubleshooting

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I have a Weil McLain 97+ 110 gas boiler that has been working well for the past couple years after we installed it. This morning I got a call from my wife that we lost heat. It was windy out and I figured that may have tripped an auto shut-off if it pushed against the exhaust too much. I would get home from work and just have to reset it.

Returning from work I checked that the exhaust/ intake was clear and made my way to the basement. No breakers were tripped but the display was completely blank and void of any colors (vs red/purple/blue/ other warning colors with the display). I flipped the on/off switch to try to reset the boiler without effect. I verified the wire directly connected to the boiler was in fact live. I turned off the power to the boiler, removed the cover and traced all the lines making sure they were all connected (including unplugging and plugging them in). Yet again when everything was replaced and power was turned on, the display remained completely blank and the boiler pretended it was not receiving any power source. I again turned off the power supply and proceeded to remove the main display to check the fuses (low voltage 3 amp fast-blow and line voltage 12-amp slow-blow) which both seemed to be in fine shape visually. I checked all the connections again and reattached the main display with the same disappointing results.

I admittedly do not have a multimeter to test the fuses and am hoping they still may be the problem despite looking fine. Beyond that I can't imagine the display somehow going bad within a few years.

I've been racking my brain on anything else I can troubleshoot but haven't been able to come up with anything else. Just looking for anything I may have missed.
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