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Boiler Heat and Electric Heat in the same House.

February 28, 2017, 9:33 am
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Hi Everyone,

I'm probably the least handy person out there and I cannot seem to find an answer when I google this.

I just bought a house. It's a great little house with a new'ish gas boiler (5-10 years old). There are radiators throughout the main floor that the boiler heats to provide heat to the house. It works great! In fact, I think I am going to like boiler heat much more than forced air.

However, when a previous owner finished the basement and dining room, electric baseboard heat was installed. The kind that has the dial on the wall for the room that the baseboard is in. Throughout the basement and the dining room, there are 4 of these electric baseboards. I know how expensive these can get because this is what I dealt with in college. It's awful.

My question: Is it possible to hook these existing electric baseboards up to my boiler? If so, how? If not, what can I do to eliminate this electric baseboard heat?
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Leaky 1/2" PEX Fittings

February 28, 2017, 7:57 pm
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OK Pros,
I've got an in-floor heat system installed 10 years ago that uses 1/2" PEX. The manifolds that serve the 1/2" PEX that go to and come from the floors have had leaky compression fittings ever since they were installed. The manifolds were all corroded and scaled up, so I (the amateur) bought new manifolds and installed them. Take a look at the photo of the compression fittings. After I Installed these fittings all four leaked like they did with the pros. I had tightened the nuts arm tight as I didn't think that with only 12 feet of pressure it would take much. The 1/2" PEX is Rauplex from Rehau:
  • Should I be tightening the nut until it squeezes the ferrule and stops turning?
  • I was surprised how loose the part that fits inside the PEX was. I thought it would take some pushing to get it, but it almost seemed to have some clearance. Could that be why it leaked for the pros too? Is the tubing not the right size for these compression fittings?
  • When I was turning the nut something was grabbing the PEX and twisting it around. That doesn't seem good. Any way of not twisting the bejeebers out of the tubing?
Thanks Guys!
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Convert Bock oil hw heater to indirect?

March 1, 2017, 10:09 am
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Converting to gas soon. Getting a power vent gas boiler, since I am moving boiler to garage, and can direct vent. I am wondering to save money, can I convert my 3 yr old Bock oil fired hw heater to be an indirect? Or storage for hw?? Thanks.
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Lochinvar boiler question

March 2, 2017, 6:02 am
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I am responsible for a church-run school which is currently heated by five 1997 Weil-McLain EGH series gas boilers, totaling 2,000,000 BTU, all controlled by a Tekmar 258 (it's a hydronic system; we've never seen more than three boilers running at a time). Two of them have cracked blocks and have been shut down; a third was rebuilt with a new block last fall; and the remaining two are probably not long for this world. Our mechanical contractor (whom I trust, and has a stellar reputation in the industry) is proposing keeping the one newly-rebuilt unit and installing three Lochinvar CBN 399 boilers. Does anyone have experience with Lochinvar, and with this particular line? I've read up on their products and have seen some mixed reviews, but those assessments seem more concerned with residential applications.

Thank you.
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Weil Mclain GV-5 Baseboard Flow

March 2, 2017, 5:22 pm
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I recently replaced 4 Honeywell Zone valves with 4 Flow Control valves to allow me to use a Taco -SR506 Priority Zone controller. The Taco replaced 4 Furnas contactors that would send the signal to the zone valves and energize the zone circulator pumps. The Taco is working properly as my DHW indirect is prioritized and not allow the zone circulator pumps to run when the room thermostats are calling for heat. The system previously allowed the pumps to run even as the indirect was calling for hot water from the boiler. The boiler uses a internal circulator to feed water to the Indirect. The internal circulator also runs whenever a baseboard zones calls for heat. The system is piped with 4 Circulator pumps each being controlled by 4 thermostats.
What I'm feeling is the water is flowing through all the zones even as the respective circulator pump is not energized. The piping coming from the boiler is a 1" riser to the ceiling and nineties, supplying the individual zones There is a 1" riser returning in parallel to the boiler. How do I prevent the flow reaching the zones that is not calling?
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Budurus GB142 Question

March 3, 2017, 1:39 pm
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I've done a few searches but can't seem to find out if this boiler uses any water during normal operation?

The reason I ask is we've been getting the H7 low pressure error and have to lift the lever on the feed valve (Watts 1156F) to bring the pressure back up, so that's due for a cleaning or replacement. System loses about 2 psi over a 2-3 week period. Since water is only being fed in manually now, I'm wondering if the use is normal or if it may be an indication of a slow leak somewhere?

Thanks for any input.
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Furnace control board help

March 3, 2017, 1:14 pm
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Good afternoon. I woke up to a cold house today so I checked the furnace and it has a low pressure fault code on it. I cycled power and tried it and my inducer motor won't turn on which I'm guessing is causing my low pressure fault. I checked for 120V power coming from circuit board terminals to the inducer motor on start up and get zero volts. I ran 120V test power to the inducer motor to confirm motor is good and it runs perfectly. So would it be safe to say I need to order a new control board?? The furnace is a ICP 2 stage furnace and its about 9yrs old. Thanks and appreciate and help!!
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New breaching & flue liner?

March 4, 2017, 11:54 am
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Well, I've got to move the water heater in the basement to make some more room. The chimney & footer is in the center of the house, the water heater is on one side & I want to move it to the other side. I can get the wet core machine from work & core appx 12" through the chimney into the flue—is there any reason why I can't/shouldn't do that? I can also raise the breaching somewhat, right now I've only got about 8" from the top of the draft diverter to the breaching.

The inside dia of the flue is ≈ 7½ x 11½. I'm sure this was adequate for the old gravity furnace, but I'm down to just a water heater in that flue now, 33k input. I think this is a good time to think about a flue liner as well. Height to chimney cap is ±30', straight shot. Is there any reason to not install a 3" or 4" insulated flue liner since I'm already going to be doing some major rework? The flue seemed to be in fine shape the last time I was on the roof, maybe two years ago, several years into the current config (just the WH in the flue).

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Lochinvar Solutions clogs with 'soot'

March 5, 2017, 10:14 am
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I have a reasonably new Lochinvar Solutions boiler - for heating my 1940's 1,000 square foot home (in slab heat). EVERY year I pay hundreds of dollars to have it cleaned (it stops igniting) . It is absolutely loaded with what I will call 'soot'. The boiler gets all the combustion air it could possibly need (it is in a open room) and has a new exhaust (with motorized vent damper). The boiler is a 'rebuild' - the boiler I bought leaked (at the sweges(sp?) between the fin tubes and the tanks) Lochinvar was adamant this could not be happening and did not want to replace - they finally agreed, albeit reluctantly, when it became obvious it was leaking - the agreed to replace the unit with a rebuilt unit. I have the mechanical man coming Tuesday for the nasty job of dissembling the unit and cleaning. ANY IDEAS how to keep this from happening? can I post pictures to this site (I will have them Tuesday night). Buying a more efficient boiler has turned into an expensive nightmare ! thank you .
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Baxi luna 310

March 5, 2017, 5:47 am
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Changed main board and air switch on this Two to three weeks ago.
It is not used for hot water
If I jump out of the micro switch assembly on the pressure differential, Pump starts fan proves and boiler fires I'm tricking the boiler into thinking there's a call for hot water and I get heat no problem but obviously I can't leave it like this
There is no external thermostat, jumper appears to be correct but I cannot get a call for heat pump does not even start.
I have the manual
Any advise
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Gas valve clicks, sometime gas, sometimes none.

March 5, 2017, 3:26 pm
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I have an Empire DV-40E-4 natural gas heater that sometimes lets gas through other times not.

The inducer motor runs, HSI glows, gas valve clicks, burners light. Other times it will get to the gas valve click, but no ignition.

I know it sure seems as if it's the valve. I'm just hoping for something a little cheaper to be broken lol.

The valve is a R3237 Can someone cross reference this and tell me if there are others out there? I know when I replaced the HSI, there were several available with different names/manufacturers.
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Just......wow

March 7, 2017, 4:53 pm
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I don't have words......boiler was flooding, they spent $$$$$ to replace the boiler to solve the problem, installed this, boiler still flooding, now refuse to come back.
I would say we should play the "list all the problems" game, but I am not sure any of us have the time.......
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There it is!

March 9, 2017, 7:55 am
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This is why your house smelled like gas for the last 20 years. Contrary to what you were told, it didn't come from the fireplace.
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Utica PEG225CDE Boiler Pilot Re-light

March 9, 2017, 11:13 am
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Does anybody have experience with this Boiler? My power went out and I went downstairs to check on the electrical box to notice my pilot light went out on my boiler as well. The knob for the pilot control is set to "pilot" but I can't see exactly where the pilot is supposed to be lit. When I hold down the red button on the control I can smell gas so I know everything there seems to be working correctly. I pulled off the panel to the unit looking for a pilot hole which most sites said to look for but my unit is pretty old and must be set up a different way.....or I have no idea what I'm looking for.
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Gas Water Heater - Safe to drain baseboard loops but run domestic?

March 9, 2017, 4:26 pm
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We sprung a leak on a baseboard pipe. I have the loop valves closed off, and the drain pipe is trickling out. I want to completely drain that loop, but I'm not sure that the trickling is effective - it may be leaking into the loop from the main supply. We're not planning to use the water heater for baseboard heating anymore, so I'm fine draining the entire thing.

BUT, it also heats our domestic water. I assume it's a unique line through the furnace? Is is safe to open the main drain and drain all the water because the domestic is coming in/going out from the side of the unit? or would that also drain and kill our domestic supply of hot water? And of course it would need to keep running to heat our domestic water. The baseboard loop would be empty, and the pump/thermostats would be turned off too. But would having that empty during heating (heating the domestic line - if it is unique) damage the unit?

I just want to get the water out of the leaking loop entirely, but it doesn't seem like opening the drain valve to that section is getting the job done.

Note: This is an OLD water heater (hence wanting to get it stopped since planning to replace at least the house heating loops)
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Reason for being air bound?

March 10, 2017, 4:08 pm
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Have a friend who has a steam boiler with a loop of hot water baseboard piped off of it for the second floor that was recently renovated.

He maintains the boiler as best he can and shut the boiler down, isolated the baseboard loop and drained and flushed the near boiler piping. Not sure if he ever added cleaner or not but when he started the system back up the baseboard loop was air bound - couldn't get any circulation. What would cause this and what should / could be done to eliminate the issue?




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lochinvar noble

March 13, 2017, 5:05 am
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Just looking for feedback has anyone installed are used this boiler yet? Looks like it's got 10 to 1 turn down to 11,000 BTUs which is the lowest I have seen in Combi.
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Steam heating system issues radiators not getting fully hot

March 12, 2017, 8:57 pm
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Hello, My condo has been quite cold this winter because the radiators are not getting fully hot. This has been a continuous issue for the past few winters but seems to be getting worse especially this year.

Specs:
* Gas fueled
* Single-pipe steam system
* The old oil boiler was converted to the new gas boiler in 2013
* Burnham IN4PVNI-M2 boiler (installed in 2013)

Symptoms:
* Radiators not getting fully hot
* Temperature is nowhere near satisfying thermostat (it is 47 degress in the open areas)
* Supply pipes (the pipes in the floor that supply the radiators with steam) are only hot 50% of the time... sometimes supply pipes are hot and radiator gets only 10% hot, sometimes supply pipes are cold completely and radiators are cold

Possible issues:
* Balance is wrong? I have read that steam heating systems need to be perfectly balanced to work correctly. When the old oil boiler was replaced with the new gas one, that may have thrown off the balance of the system. I don't think the people who installed it balanced the system correctly and maybe that's why it has never really worked well and is getting worse.
* Radiator supply valves? One of the many plumbers who looked at this issue suggested replacing the supply valves that feed steam to the radiators. I don't think this is the primary issue, because as mentioned, the supply pipes aren't always hot, anyway. I also checked that the valves are open all the way on each radiator.

What I have tried:
* Replaced radiator air vents -- did not make a difference
* Replaced the main vent with a new Gordon #1. This seemed to make it worse so I put the old main vent back on.
* Checked and corrected the pitch on all radiators

Questions:
* Are there any steam EXPERTs in the Boston area? Several different companies have looked at the issue and noone has been able to solve it.
* What could be causing these issues? What can I do to balance the system? Should it be "flushed" out somehow?
* Is it at all possible to convert my existing steam boiler to a radiant heat system? With all the issues I have been having with steam, I am thinking I should've gone with radiant heat. I'm on the first floor and and my wood floors are exposed in the basement, it could be a good fit for radiant heat, if I can re-use my existing boiler.

Thanks in advance!









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Bosch SSB boilers

March 13, 2017, 4:11 pm
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Just wondering if anyone has installed Bosch's SSB commercial boilers and what your thoughts are and if you have had any issues, thanks in advance.
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IBC VFC 15-150 Modulating boiler with 10:1 ratio

March 16, 2017, 10:36 am
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I'm looking to install an IBC VFC 15-150 in my 5500 sq ft home in Long Island. Heat loss comes in at 90K for the home. However, with 6+ members drawing down an indirect HW tank (120 gal or so) for showering I feel that the added capacity of the VFC will help keep up with the HW demand and the 10:1 modulation will still allow for efficient heating.

Any thoughts?

Also, considering the water quality issues in Long Island, am I better of with a SS tank or perhaps a stone lined or even glass lined tank?

Suggestions welcome.
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