Got a stumper, we have a one year old Bosch KBR Lp boiler, these boilers have been rock solid. This job we've been back 3 times, each time the o2/co2 numbers are different from where we left it. Any propane people out there? Bad regulator on the LP? Thanks, Gary
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LP Gas pressures chaging????
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Bosch Greenstar Combi 151 not able to keep up
I got a bosch combi unit installed last year. I am having some trouble with it. It is not able to keep up on a cold day. I am wondering if it is related to any of the settings not set correctly. I tried calling the contractor who did the install but, he is not very helpful. Now, he doesn't even pick up my call.
How do i check if all the settings are correct?
Thank you
Monika
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Burnham boiler making loud knocking sounds
My home’s boiler has recently started making a lot of noise. It sounds like pebbles are crashing around inside when the boiler is running. When the boiler turns off (but the circulator pump is still running), the crashing subsides within a few seconds.
It’s a four-zone closed-loop system:
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It’s a Burnham boiler that was installed in 1988. Info about the boiler model is written on the wall inside the boiler closet:
![image]()
I realize 1988 is pretty old and I’ll have to replace the boiler at some point. On the other hand, I’ve heard that these old Burnhams can run virtually forever if properly maintained, and I’d like to keep it running as long as possible.
I found these articles outlining possible causes of kettling:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/what-a-boiler-kettling-noise-means
https://www.sentinelprotects.com/uk/support/guides/how-to-stop-boiler-noise
One possibility is that the water is getting too hot, due to a variety of causes: faulty aquastat, failing circulator pump (leaving water in the boiler too long), or pressure too low.
But when the boiler shuts off, the gauge on the boiler reads 25 psi and 190 degrees, which seems reasonable:
![image]()
This site has a nice table showing the boiling point of water vs. pressure: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html
At 25 psi, the boiling point of water is 240, so it seems like I have a significant buffer between 190 and 240.
Given that the temperature seems OK, buildup of mineral deposits on the heat exchanger (causing localized boiling) seems the most likely cause. We have hard water, resulting in significant mineral deposits on faucets, for example, and on valves and pipes in the boiler system:
![image]()
![image]()
From my reading, it seems like I should try adding an inhibitor to dissipate buildup and reduce future buildup. Fernox F1 seems to be the most commonly recommended:
http://www.fernox.us/products/water+treatment+chemicals/inhibitors/protector+f1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fernox-56599-Central-Heating-Protector/dp/B003HQ97E4
Does this seem like the right thing to do? If so, my problem is where to add the inhibitor. I've watched three or four videos showing how to add inhibitor to a pressurized system, and they all make use of large bleed valves on radiators. For instance:
![image]()
I don't have large radiators like this. I have small baseboards:
![image]()
In my entire four-zone system, I’ve only ever found two bleed valves (making purging the system extremely challenging). And these bleed valves are tiny – I’m not going to be able to add inhibitor through these:
![image]()
So where do I add it? The only place I can think of is through the air purger:
![image]()
So I’m wondering, could I do the following:
1. Close off all zones.
2. Drain enough water from the boiler to depressurize and make space for the inhibitor.
3. Remove the air vent.
4. Pour inhibitor into the air purger, using a funnel.
5. Install new air vent. (These are cheap and seem to fail frequently, so I might as well install a new one.)
6. Add water to repressurize.
7. Purge. (Hopefully not too difficult, since I’ve closed off the zones.)
Does that seem like a reasonable way to get inhibitor into the system? And am I on the right track in the first place, with the idea to add inhibitor, or is there something else I should investigate or try first?
Thanks in advance for any help diagnosing and solving this problem!
It’s a four-zone closed-loop system:
It’s a Burnham boiler that was installed in 1988. Info about the boiler model is written on the wall inside the boiler closet:
I realize 1988 is pretty old and I’ll have to replace the boiler at some point. On the other hand, I’ve heard that these old Burnhams can run virtually forever if properly maintained, and I’d like to keep it running as long as possible.
I found these articles outlining possible causes of kettling:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/what-a-boiler-kettling-noise-means
https://www.sentinelprotects.com/uk/support/guides/how-to-stop-boiler-noise
One possibility is that the water is getting too hot, due to a variety of causes: faulty aquastat, failing circulator pump (leaving water in the boiler too long), or pressure too low.
But when the boiler shuts off, the gauge on the boiler reads 25 psi and 190 degrees, which seems reasonable:
This site has a nice table showing the boiling point of water vs. pressure: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html
At 25 psi, the boiling point of water is 240, so it seems like I have a significant buffer between 190 and 240.
Given that the temperature seems OK, buildup of mineral deposits on the heat exchanger (causing localized boiling) seems the most likely cause. We have hard water, resulting in significant mineral deposits on faucets, for example, and on valves and pipes in the boiler system:
From my reading, it seems like I should try adding an inhibitor to dissipate buildup and reduce future buildup. Fernox F1 seems to be the most commonly recommended:
http://www.fernox.us/products/water+treatment+chemicals/inhibitors/protector+f1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fernox-56599-Central-Heating-Protector/dp/B003HQ97E4
Does this seem like the right thing to do? If so, my problem is where to add the inhibitor. I've watched three or four videos showing how to add inhibitor to a pressurized system, and they all make use of large bleed valves on radiators. For instance:
I don't have large radiators like this. I have small baseboards:
In my entire four-zone system, I’ve only ever found two bleed valves (making purging the system extremely challenging). And these bleed valves are tiny – I’m not going to be able to add inhibitor through these:
So where do I add it? The only place I can think of is through the air purger:
So I’m wondering, could I do the following:
1. Close off all zones.
2. Drain enough water from the boiler to depressurize and make space for the inhibitor.
3. Remove the air vent.
4. Pour inhibitor into the air purger, using a funnel.
5. Install new air vent. (These are cheap and seem to fail frequently, so I might as well install a new one.)
6. Add water to repressurize.
7. Purge. (Hopefully not too difficult, since I’ve closed off the zones.)
Does that seem like a reasonable way to get inhibitor into the system? And am I on the right track in the first place, with the idea to add inhibitor, or is there something else I should investigate or try first?
Thanks in advance for any help diagnosing and solving this problem!
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goodman gas furnace not lighting
Hey guys, had a goodman gms80403an-12040013772 furnace. tech support said to replace board and we did. whats going on is inducer goes, glows,and hear gas valve click a bit and flutters, have good gas to unit.if i put 24volt direct to gas valve it opens properly and dumps gas out. i tried jump all interlocks and read 24 vlts to gas valve for a couple seconds. another tech support said harness,another said no. we widened pin connections on board plug also.They kept bringing up bad ground.The unit is almost 5years old as well as the home.Could this be the problem?I told home owner to get electrician to prove that ground is in tact from panel to attic furnace. They still have no heat and the tech support seems to be all over the place and we are running out of things to check.Any help would be very helpful as we are getting frustrated! thx
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Both Relief Valves spitting out water, too much pressure in sytem.
I had a part on my pipes that was leaking water so I had plumber#1 come in to take care of this.
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He told me that the way my boiler room was setup was backwards:
1. Expansion tank on boiler was no good and was too low on the boiler
2. Expansion tank on water heater was no good, and needed waste band.
3. Circulator should be on the return, and each zone needs a circulator
4. zones didnt work correctly, only one zone triggered the boiler.
5. there was too much pressure in the system.
6. Needed Bleeders and shut off valves
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I was confused because everything was working fine, no other leaks.. and no other probs.
So I got a few quotes and ended up going with plumber#2 who gave the best price and was a recommendation from a friend. Friend said this plumber solved stuff other plumbers couldn't.
Before first visit I knew there was something wrong with him, on date he was scheduled to come in he said he forgot his phone, then the next day he said he over slept.
Visit#1- on first visit 2 weeks ago he did the following:
1. Removed Expansion tank from water heater and capped it.
2. Replaced Expansion tank on boiler with the one from the water heater :face palm:
3. Moved Boiler Expansion tank higher.
4. Flipped Circulator, it went from pointing up on the supply, to down on the supply.
5. Rearranged some piping
6. Added Bleeder valves
7. Fixed zones
8. bled the cast iron waterbased boards, and bled the system
He got paid and left, no more then 20 mins later it sprung leaks from my Pressure relief valves
He said it was because he left one of the zone valves closed
He left again and there was more problems that came up, both the boiler and water heater were spitting out water.
so I shut the boiler down and cut off the water.
Several days later the main burner on water heater no longer fired up. Pilot was working, i increased the temp and nothing...
He said he didnt know the town I was in had 80 Pounds of pressure.
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Before Visit #2 he couldnt make it because of a funeral, then he had sprinkler certification.
Visit#2 - on the 2nd visit 1 week ago he did the following:
1. He realized he left the water flow from the city line open so that it wasnt going through the PRV, so he closed the loop to make the water go through the pressure reduction valve :face palm:
2. changed the expansion tank on the boiler from Extol 30 to Extol 15 :face palm:
3. put back the original expansion tank on the water heater which was previously filled with water :face palm:
4. changed the back flow on the line feeding the boiler
5. changed the Pressure relief valves on boiler from 30 to 50 PSI and water heater from 15 to 30 PSI (but they were not working properly and was leaking so he took them off and plugged them :face palm:) wish i knew that before.
As soon as he left when PSI hit about 30 it started spitting out water from the joints of the relief valve area of the boiler.
so I shut the boiler down and cut off the water.
For a week I have been trying to get Plumber#2 to come back in to finish the job because I had no heat and hot water.
He gave me excuse after excuse, he said he was waiting for a new Pressure Reduction Valve one day, then the next day he was at church, then next he got a piece of metal stuck in his eye, then the next day he said he was at hospital and might lose an eye. Finally he said lose my number because he aint coming.
He will surely get a complaint from me to the town and licensing authority about his practices.
So onto Plumber #3 he will be in to fix everything.
This plumber is on yelp and seems reputable and came with recommendations.
He said everything the last plumber did was wrong and should be reversed. :face palm:
what do you guys think?
Thanks for any input.
He told me that the way my boiler room was setup was backwards:
1. Expansion tank on boiler was no good and was too low on the boiler
2. Expansion tank on water heater was no good, and needed waste band.
3. Circulator should be on the return, and each zone needs a circulator
4. zones didnt work correctly, only one zone triggered the boiler.
5. there was too much pressure in the system.
6. Needed Bleeders and shut off valves
I was confused because everything was working fine, no other leaks.. and no other probs.
So I got a few quotes and ended up going with plumber#2 who gave the best price and was a recommendation from a friend. Friend said this plumber solved stuff other plumbers couldn't.
Before first visit I knew there was something wrong with him, on date he was scheduled to come in he said he forgot his phone, then the next day he said he over slept.
Visit#1- on first visit 2 weeks ago he did the following:
1. Removed Expansion tank from water heater and capped it.
2. Replaced Expansion tank on boiler with the one from the water heater :face palm:
3. Moved Boiler Expansion tank higher.
4. Flipped Circulator, it went from pointing up on the supply, to down on the supply.
5. Rearranged some piping
6. Added Bleeder valves
7. Fixed zones
8. bled the cast iron waterbased boards, and bled the system
He got paid and left, no more then 20 mins later it sprung leaks from my Pressure relief valves
He said it was because he left one of the zone valves closed
He left again and there was more problems that came up, both the boiler and water heater were spitting out water.
so I shut the boiler down and cut off the water.
Several days later the main burner on water heater no longer fired up. Pilot was working, i increased the temp and nothing...
He said he didnt know the town I was in had 80 Pounds of pressure.
Before Visit #2 he couldnt make it because of a funeral, then he had sprinkler certification.
Visit#2 - on the 2nd visit 1 week ago he did the following:
1. He realized he left the water flow from the city line open so that it wasnt going through the PRV, so he closed the loop to make the water go through the pressure reduction valve :face palm:
2. changed the expansion tank on the boiler from Extol 30 to Extol 15 :face palm:
3. put back the original expansion tank on the water heater which was previously filled with water :face palm:
4. changed the back flow on the line feeding the boiler
5. changed the Pressure relief valves on boiler from 30 to 50 PSI and water heater from 15 to 30 PSI (but they were not working properly and was leaking so he took them off and plugged them :face palm:) wish i knew that before.
As soon as he left when PSI hit about 30 it started spitting out water from the joints of the relief valve area of the boiler.
so I shut the boiler down and cut off the water.
For a week I have been trying to get Plumber#2 to come back in to finish the job because I had no heat and hot water.
He gave me excuse after excuse, he said he was waiting for a new Pressure Reduction Valve one day, then the next day he was at church, then next he got a piece of metal stuck in his eye, then the next day he said he was at hospital and might lose an eye. Finally he said lose my number because he aint coming.
He will surely get a complaint from me to the town and licensing authority about his practices.
So onto Plumber #3 he will be in to fix everything.
This plumber is on yelp and seems reputable and came with recommendations.
He said everything the last plumber did was wrong and should be reversed. :face palm:
what do you guys think?
Thanks for any input.
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Clow gas steam radiator for sale
I have an antique Clow gas steam radiator for sale. It does need some minor work to get working again.
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LP GAs Pressure - Is it a potential problem
I have a Teledyne LAARS JVT-100c 70,000BTU hot water heat on Propane at an altitude of 7.300 ft. in Colorado. Although 25 years old it has worked well but has several irritating issues that have been addressed by 2 well qualified boiler techs. (1) intermittently it will "blue fire" only 3 of the 4 burners with the 4th a "yellow flame". We turn the gas control valve to pilot and back immediately to burn and it clears up with all 4 "blue flame". (2) Intermittently the gas control valve will "buzz" with a high pitched sound. Again, turning the flame off clears it out. (3) Intermittently, the relay will activate with a loud "Click". These events may occur once or twice a day or not for 4 or 5 days.
The techs have changed the gas control valve, relay and the transformer so almost all the control components are less than a year old. Plus, the system has been disassembled and inspected, cleaned and reassembled at least 2x. I'm a rancher and mechanically inclined and watched their work. These were experienced guys. No problem there. I am left with the conclusion that the gas pressure must be fluctuating and not staying constant. We are on two 1,000 gallon LP tanks. How about some ideas?
The techs have changed the gas control valve, relay and the transformer so almost all the control components are less than a year old. Plus, the system has been disassembled and inspected, cleaned and reassembled at least 2x. I'm a rancher and mechanically inclined and watched their work. These were experienced guys. No problem there. I am left with the conclusion that the gas pressure must be fluctuating and not staying constant. We are on two 1,000 gallon LP tanks. How about some ideas?
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Super store SSU45
Just installed it with W/M Go-3. Circ not calling aqua stat set at lowest setting installed a swet check 3/4 but still getting 160 degree DHW from it and can't cool it down. The supply pipe is hot but should not be. Can't figure why it is flowing. Crazy!
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Help with new boiler purchase please
Hello Everyone,
I apologize ahead of time as im totally new to boilers. I grew up down south and moved to Long Island and bought a house. The boiler in there now is from 1969 leaks and im sure will die any day. House details are 2800 square feet including basement. Basement does have radiators. 2 zones (one for second floor and one for first and basement together). I only have one baseboard on the second floor. The rest of radiators are in the wall in each room under the windows.
So i have been trying to get quotes and familiarize myself as best as i could with these systems. So far i have 3 quotes. (really 4 but i couldn't stand the guy and do not want to do business with him)
Company 1 is offering Bosch 151 unit - They told me they switched to Bosch from Navien because Navien gave them too many issues
Company 2 is offering Navien 240 (he also quoted me for Bosch because i explained concern about the negative reviews with Navien ) - Company 2 is very fond of Navien and recommends them. Says he has installed 100's of them and no complaints and carries their parts on the truck so if something does break it can be fixed within minutes.
Company 3 is offering Kinetics Energy system 2000 EK-1 or Accel CS. I see they seem to save a lot o money on Oil burners but i dont see much info on Gas burners for them. Also when i try to do research on the forums it seems people either really love them or hate them.
Other than i obviously needing to heat the house, i have 3 women living with me who like to take showers in what would seem like boiling water. So i need hot water instantly and endless. I've mentioned this to all 3 who have all said it should not be a problem. Company 2 even wrote on my quote "Navien NCB-240 AND endless water heater".
I have Lots of space to put so space is not an issue. I hope i have everything down needed. If not please let me know what else i can provide.
On a side note, my gas bill last month was 250 dollars. The heat was on 61 the entire time (5 days for 70). Average temp was probably Mid 30's. To me that seems high but maybe im wrong? I checked the bill and i believe it said gas itself was a little over 100 and they charged 125 to "deliver it". Does that seem right to you? I know boiler is leaking (as well as behind the stove i think) but would that cause the bill to be so high? Dont worry we are not living in the house at the moment. I only go there after work everyday and work a little bit and of course on the weekends.
I apologize ahead of time as im totally new to boilers. I grew up down south and moved to Long Island and bought a house. The boiler in there now is from 1969 leaks and im sure will die any day. House details are 2800 square feet including basement. Basement does have radiators. 2 zones (one for second floor and one for first and basement together). I only have one baseboard on the second floor. The rest of radiators are in the wall in each room under the windows.
So i have been trying to get quotes and familiarize myself as best as i could with these systems. So far i have 3 quotes. (really 4 but i couldn't stand the guy and do not want to do business with him)
Company 1 is offering Bosch 151 unit - They told me they switched to Bosch from Navien because Navien gave them too many issues
Company 2 is offering Navien 240 (he also quoted me for Bosch because i explained concern about the negative reviews with Navien ) - Company 2 is very fond of Navien and recommends them. Says he has installed 100's of them and no complaints and carries their parts on the truck so if something does break it can be fixed within minutes.
Company 3 is offering Kinetics Energy system 2000 EK-1 or Accel CS. I see they seem to save a lot o money on Oil burners but i dont see much info on Gas burners for them. Also when i try to do research on the forums it seems people either really love them or hate them.
Other than i obviously needing to heat the house, i have 3 women living with me who like to take showers in what would seem like boiling water. So i need hot water instantly and endless. I've mentioned this to all 3 who have all said it should not be a problem. Company 2 even wrote on my quote "Navien NCB-240 AND endless water heater".
I have Lots of space to put so space is not an issue. I hope i have everything down needed. If not please let me know what else i can provide.
On a side note, my gas bill last month was 250 dollars. The heat was on 61 the entire time (5 days for 70). Average temp was probably Mid 30's. To me that seems high but maybe im wrong? I checked the bill and i believe it said gas itself was a little over 100 and they charged 125 to "deliver it". Does that seem right to you? I know boiler is leaking (as well as behind the stove i think) but would that cause the bill to be so high? Dont worry we are not living in the house at the moment. I only go there after work everyday and work a little bit and of course on the weekends.
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Rheem Classic 90 Plus furnace - Pilot light acting up
Hello!
I have a Rheem Classic 90 Plus in my condo, circa 1998. I moved in about a year ago, and have had no problems with the furnace until now. I was hoping I could get some insight on the issue I'm having.
It's been cold here (20-30 degrees). Yesterday, I noticed that the heating in the condo wasn't working, and the temperature had dropped to about 60, compared to the 71 degrees at which it had been set. I fiddle with the thermostat some, and no dice. The fan seems to be working fine. If I set the thermostat to "Off" (as in neither Heat or Cool), and set the fan to "On", the fan turns on just fine. But when set to Heat, the fan turns off. When it's trying to turn the heat on, I can hear the furnace start making noise, and it vibrates, but the pilot light never turns on.
I took off the upper access panel on the furnace, but I'm not well-versed enough to identify if there is a problem by sight. However, with the access panel off, I used the thermostat to ensure that it would try to start heating. This time, the pilot light ignites and the fan starts, properly beginning to heat the condo. I replaced the access panel, and after a couple minutes, noticed that the heat had stopped again. I repeated the process, and it began working. At this point, I can consistently get the heat started by removing the access panel, making the heat turn on, then replacing the access panel without fully screwing it in. However, after a while of the heat working consistently for a few hours, it will eventually stop igniting the pilot light again, and I have to repeat the process.
Does this mean that there is some kind of air flow problem preventing the pilot light from igniting? Again, I'm not very knowledgeable about furnaces, so I don't know if there are any risks involved with keeping the access door not fully secured.
Additionally, while the pilot light is on, I can see some infrequent orange flickers in the flame, rather than pure blue all the time. This has me worried that there may be a gas leak, although I can't smell anything and do not feel ill. I have a carbon monoxide detector in the condo, and it has not gone off.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. It's cold, so I'm eager to get the heat back on, but not at the cost of a gas leak!
Thanks!
Derek
I have a Rheem Classic 90 Plus in my condo, circa 1998. I moved in about a year ago, and have had no problems with the furnace until now. I was hoping I could get some insight on the issue I'm having.
It's been cold here (20-30 degrees). Yesterday, I noticed that the heating in the condo wasn't working, and the temperature had dropped to about 60, compared to the 71 degrees at which it had been set. I fiddle with the thermostat some, and no dice. The fan seems to be working fine. If I set the thermostat to "Off" (as in neither Heat or Cool), and set the fan to "On", the fan turns on just fine. But when set to Heat, the fan turns off. When it's trying to turn the heat on, I can hear the furnace start making noise, and it vibrates, but the pilot light never turns on.
I took off the upper access panel on the furnace, but I'm not well-versed enough to identify if there is a problem by sight. However, with the access panel off, I used the thermostat to ensure that it would try to start heating. This time, the pilot light ignites and the fan starts, properly beginning to heat the condo. I replaced the access panel, and after a couple minutes, noticed that the heat had stopped again. I repeated the process, and it began working. At this point, I can consistently get the heat started by removing the access panel, making the heat turn on, then replacing the access panel without fully screwing it in. However, after a while of the heat working consistently for a few hours, it will eventually stop igniting the pilot light again, and I have to repeat the process.
Does this mean that there is some kind of air flow problem preventing the pilot light from igniting? Again, I'm not very knowledgeable about furnaces, so I don't know if there are any risks involved with keeping the access door not fully secured.
Additionally, while the pilot light is on, I can see some infrequent orange flickers in the flame, rather than pure blue all the time. This has me worried that there may be a gas leak, although I can't smell anything and do not feel ill. I have a carbon monoxide detector in the condo, and it has not gone off.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. It's cold, so I'm eager to get the heat back on, but not at the cost of a gas leak!
Thanks!
Derek
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York Warm air furnace problems
Installed a York upflow furnace last year with AC coil. Furnace shutting down blowing cold air then on again normal then cold air. 4 flash error code says flow issue. I changed limit and temp control switches still a problem. Crazy can't figure it. All vents opened so a flow problem is puzzling me. Filter clean and new Ac coil seems ok.
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Veissmann Vitoden 200 B2HB 45 Boiler
I have an assignment for school, that is asking me to find the best place to get info about boilers and AC units. So i'm looking for any info that will help.
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Hot gas supply line
I just moved into a new home. It has a natural gas supplied ventless 30,000 BTU wall heater. It is in the basement which is unfinished, but does have a 4'x8 piece of sheetrock behind it. The black pipe supply line runs 6" parallel to the side of the unit up and to the ceiling, which is exposed i-joist. It then T's and travels away from the wall and across the bottom of the i-joist to supply the furnace which is about 12' away. Here is the problem...the supply pipe is more or less directly above the heater (about 54" above the heater), and the pipe gets so hot when the heater runs that it burns my hand to touch it. I noticed it immediately the first time I ran it, and I have not run it since. Is this a code or safety hazard? Can this pipe burst or explode if it gets too hot? There is only one plumbing contractor in my town, and he is the one that installed it. I have had to have a few of his errors corrected already, so I don't think he'd be honest if I asked him. Any advice?
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Conversion burner exhaust pipe has 3/8 inch hole.
Furnace Gas Conversion burner 6 inch galvanized exhaust pipe has almost 3/8 inch hole poked in it for 40 years.
We're not dead yet. What is the best way to easily fix this?
3/8 inch bolt won't fit but 1/4 inch bolt is loose. I could use that and some metal epoxy.
Unless this is supposed to be there for some type of temperature probe - I'm making this up.
We're not dead yet. What is the best way to easily fix this?
3/8 inch bolt won't fit but 1/4 inch bolt is loose. I could use that and some metal epoxy.
Unless this is supposed to be there for some type of temperature probe - I'm making this up.
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Gas pipe sizing--summation method Q
I need to add a gas line for a cooktop to my existing natural gas piping. I have been stifled in this because the standard sizing charts indicate that my 3/4" supply is too small right off the bat. However, I understand there is a lot of safety built into the charts and that the summation method can be used to more precisely determine capacity and sizing. I found that on this site, thanks to 4Johnpipe. So, here I am to try and confirm my effort to use summation. If I had 7" WC, I think it would be a no-brainer, but with 6" (as stated on a Vectren Indiana meter application I found online--I am in Clark County, if anyone is checking), there is much less room for play in the figuring. BTW, I am getting some estimates, but I am not sure any of these guys know how to do it this way.
Since it is pretty crowded with ducts and pipes, I was thinking CSST would be the easiest way to add the cooktop line. The big box stores sell a whole kit for 1/2" if I can get away with that size. They also sell 3/4" coils. But, I my brother has the tools and the know-how to do black pipe, too.
In my first run at the calculations--assuming I did it right--it seems doable without replacing any of the existing pipe. I am attaching a diagram that I hope sufficiently shows the situation. I dotted in three possible scenarios for adding the cooktop line. I hope it is legible enough.
Any help is appreciated, especially from John, who seems to be a champion of summation.
Thanks.![]()
Since it is pretty crowded with ducts and pipes, I was thinking CSST would be the easiest way to add the cooktop line. The big box stores sell a whole kit for 1/2" if I can get away with that size. They also sell 3/4" coils. But, I my brother has the tools and the know-how to do black pipe, too.
In my first run at the calculations--assuming I did it right--it seems doable without replacing any of the existing pipe. I am attaching a diagram that I hope sufficiently shows the situation. I dotted in three possible scenarios for adding the cooktop line. I hope it is legible enough.
Any help is appreciated, especially from John, who seems to be a champion of summation.
Thanks.
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Carrier
Carrier 90 with plugged secondary. Don't need a $1300 CA, your nose usually can tell you!
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Leaking fireplace globe valve
I have a globe valve on the floor by my fireplace which operates with a key. When closed, it seals completely. When open however, it leaks around the shaft. I suspect that the packing has deteriorated in the 90 years since it was installed.
I am curious if it is possible to repack this from the top.
The floor plate is labelled "United", which may have been the United Brass Mfg company in Cleveland when the house was built. I've attached a couple of pictures.
Any help would be appreciated.
I am curious if it is possible to repack this from the top.
The floor plate is labelled "United", which may have been the United Brass Mfg company in Cleveland when the house was built. I've attached a couple of pictures.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Weil McLain Ultra 2: DHW always on
I have a Weil McLain Ultra 2 for radiant and DHW. It's finally winter today, and the house didn't stay warm. When I looked at the boiler, it showed E 02 error code : "5 ignition attempts failed". I pushed the reset button twice, and it fired. But now, it's showing it's running DHW at 190F (the aquastat is set for 120F, and there's been no DHW use). And it has been for 90 minutes.
Is there some parameter that causes DHW to stay on ?
Is there some parameter that causes DHW to stay on ?
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Rheem furnace RGAA-08EC
Trying to pin point problem on this older furnace..If the pilot light is not lit and I adjust the temperature up above room temp at thermostat the igniter lights the pilot and then burners light blower works everything works as it should..but when the temperature reaches whats being called for at thermostat and burners shut down the pilot stays lit and when the temperature inside house falls below thermostat setting the burners wont relight ...Unless I blow out the pilot..then it ignites the pilot and inturn lights the burners....So am I safe to assume that the pilot is not suppose to stay lit after burners light ? and most importantly what controls the pilot?
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Noritz Combi Nightmare
Hi.
I am struggling with a new Noritz CB 180 installation.
We have a brand new install - less than a month old. Its a CB 180 in a condo serving both domestic hot water and a First Co Airhandler Hot Water Coil.
The system worked great for the first week. After that, the client called complaining that it shut down on Error 54 (low water pressure/ system pressure 4PSI below heating loop set point) every morning. They would reset the unit and it would run fine until the following morning. This unfortunately started happening more frequently - several times a day.
What we figured out was that the system pressure was plummeting when the domestic side was in use. We installed a set up that allowed us to manually fill and monitor system pressure both at the unit and in the loop at the same time. System pressure during heating loop use is all over the map. It goes as low as 16, spikes as high as 37, T&P does not trigger. We manually fill, heating loop gauge goes up to 15 PSI, unit works, we tap domestic water, heating loop pressure gauge that we installed simply drops to zero, units digital read-out is all over the place, system codes out of 54.
My suspicion is a bad pressure sensor or three-way mix inside the unit but any insight is greatly appreciated.
I am struggling with a new Noritz CB 180 installation.
We have a brand new install - less than a month old. Its a CB 180 in a condo serving both domestic hot water and a First Co Airhandler Hot Water Coil.
The system worked great for the first week. After that, the client called complaining that it shut down on Error 54 (low water pressure/ system pressure 4PSI below heating loop set point) every morning. They would reset the unit and it would run fine until the following morning. This unfortunately started happening more frequently - several times a day.
What we figured out was that the system pressure was plummeting when the domestic side was in use. We installed a set up that allowed us to manually fill and monitor system pressure both at the unit and in the loop at the same time. System pressure during heating loop use is all over the map. It goes as low as 16, spikes as high as 37, T&P does not trigger. We manually fill, heating loop gauge goes up to 15 PSI, unit works, we tap domestic water, heating loop pressure gauge that we installed simply drops to zero, units digital read-out is all over the place, system codes out of 54.
My suspicion is a bad pressure sensor or three-way mix inside the unit but any insight is greatly appreciated.
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