Hi,
Thanks to all in the past with my hot water baseboard system. I have a new dilemma.
I have a seasonal camp (cabin) that I currently heat with a wood stove that is built on a concrete slab. Up to this point the only utilities are electric.The camp is located in Northern New York.
I decided to add a propane wall furnace to extend the season, so I purchased an Empire DV-35, contacted a propane supplier, and am doing the prep work (dug the trench, starting to install the furnace/LP supply piping, etc).
I am in the process of gutting and redoing sections of the camp, so the wall that the furnace will be installed on is down to studs and outdoor siding (pine board and batten), so I have a blank canvas,
My dilemma is how to run the supply piping, shut off, sediment trap, etc the cleanest (i.e. hidden) as the wall furnace is in a living space and no basement to feed up from.
The furnace has the 1/2" NPT inlet facing down in the lower left corner. The furnace will be located as little as 4" above the final finished floor, but it's 6" right now (bare slab). There is probably enough room between the back of the wall furnace and the wall for a flex connector, but not for black pipe.
It seems to me that a common installation would have the stub come through the wall, into a shutoff, into the tee/trap, to a flex line (or pipe and union), and elbow into the bottom, but that has all of the ugly black piping om a wall next to the unit.
I had a couple thoughts:
1) Use something like an oxbox (or build a recess) behind the unit to house the shutoff and black pipe, then flex behind the unit into an elbow into the inlet. Of course the shut off is only accessible if the furnace is removed from the wall.
2) If I can locate the sediment trap outside the wall, with the shut off right at the inlet to the unit (accessible).
3) I think that the propane supplier said he would be installing a drip leg near the secondary regulator where his supply comes in the wall, so maybe I don't need the sediment trap?
Maybe I am missing something or overthinking it. Unfortunately, the guys at the supplier I bought it from aren't the installers, but on Monday I can see if I can contact them.
Any thoughts from someone who has done this?
Thank you
Jim
Thanks to all in the past with my hot water baseboard system. I have a new dilemma.
I have a seasonal camp (cabin) that I currently heat with a wood stove that is built on a concrete slab. Up to this point the only utilities are electric.The camp is located in Northern New York.
I decided to add a propane wall furnace to extend the season, so I purchased an Empire DV-35, contacted a propane supplier, and am doing the prep work (dug the trench, starting to install the furnace/LP supply piping, etc).
I am in the process of gutting and redoing sections of the camp, so the wall that the furnace will be installed on is down to studs and outdoor siding (pine board and batten), so I have a blank canvas,
My dilemma is how to run the supply piping, shut off, sediment trap, etc the cleanest (i.e. hidden) as the wall furnace is in a living space and no basement to feed up from.
The furnace has the 1/2" NPT inlet facing down in the lower left corner. The furnace will be located as little as 4" above the final finished floor, but it's 6" right now (bare slab). There is probably enough room between the back of the wall furnace and the wall for a flex connector, but not for black pipe.
It seems to me that a common installation would have the stub come through the wall, into a shutoff, into the tee/trap, to a flex line (or pipe and union), and elbow into the bottom, but that has all of the ugly black piping om a wall next to the unit.
I had a couple thoughts:
1) Use something like an oxbox (or build a recess) behind the unit to house the shutoff and black pipe, then flex behind the unit into an elbow into the inlet. Of course the shut off is only accessible if the furnace is removed from the wall.
2) If I can locate the sediment trap outside the wall, with the shut off right at the inlet to the unit (accessible).
3) I think that the propane supplier said he would be installing a drip leg near the secondary regulator where his supply comes in the wall, so maybe I don't need the sediment trap?
Maybe I am missing something or overthinking it. Unfortunately, the guys at the supplier I bought it from aren't the installers, but on Monday I can see if I can contact them.
Any thoughts from someone who has done this?
Thank you
Jim