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Thermal shock - boiler vs hot water heater for hydronic baseboard heat.

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Hello, new to this forum. In the process of building our retirement home. Home designed for old age (no steps, no tub, wheel chair/walker access throughout), energy efficient and easy to maintain/economical to build, a basic box with a smaller box on front for entrance, 2 bedrooms, 1.5 bath, total SQ'ft with entrace is 1204 sq'. Foundation is a "Frost Protected Shallow Foundation" basically its a concrete floating slab with 2" of foam under it and the exterior perimeter is also insulated with 2" foam running vertically and horizontally away from the slab. 2"x6" exterior stud walls, with 1/2" OSB sheathing on exterior (will be insulated with R19 fiberglass PLUS 1.5" of rigid foam board on exterior over the OSB). Pella Encompass energy efficient vinyl windows. Special order energy heal trusses which will allow 18" blown insulation, R60. EPA wood stove for supplement/emergency heat. Primary heat...either a Slant/Fin Victory VSPH 60 or a hot water heater in LP fuel that will circulate heated water to hydronic baseboard along the interior perimeter of home, 2 zones (1 zone for bedrooms/bathrooms, 1 zone for living room/kitchen/dining etc.) The question I have is: Since I will be utilizing the EPA woodstove in the winter to lessen the cost of LP, the water in the heat system will be cold most of the time (especially in the zone for Living room/kitchen/dining) except for when we would go on vacation or not burn wood on a certain day. The second zone that heats the bedrooms/bathroom etc. would cycle more than the first zone, leading the boiler's cast iron exchanger warm and then if first zone called for heat, the cold water would shock the cast iron exchanger?? This is why I might consider a hot water heater BECAUSE...the hot water heater has reserve capacity to absorb the thermal shock/water temp difference plus I could use an antifreeze solution. I did a heat loss calculation online at -15 temp (Southern Upper Peninsula of MI) and because the house is so well insulated...the calculator came to needing about 34,000 BTU/HR (I could have done the heat loss wrong but I think Im pretty close). Now that 34,000 BTU/HR is for WHOLE house heating not taking into fact that I will be using the woodstove. Now because of potential thermal shock to cast iron boiler etc. I was considering a closed system, using the boiler or hot water heater with "MF200 Axiom Pressure Pal Mini System Feeder" so that I can have the antifreeze solution in the water, as my code does not allow for an antifreeze solution WITH potable water fill. Anyone have any ideas on which would be best?? I will try and upload the floor plan so anyone can get a rough idea of the home. Thank you for any assistance.

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