When my 20 years old TriAngleTube non-condesing combi-boiler started to leak internally, there hasn't been much choice, but to replace it. Based on the recommendations by a handful of installers/plumbers, it's been hard to say no to the condensing combi-boiler and the much emphasized savings in utility bills.
Selecting one of the best combi-boiler made by Viessmann had been the result of "might as well get the good one" mantra. While I have not regretted my selection yet, it worth for comparing its operational cost to the TriangleTube for the same time period:
Image may be NSFW.
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Based on the first five month of operational cost, there's certainly a decrease in the overall cost of the utility bills. The savings is greater for the NG, the only one that the energy efficiency rating is calculated by. The rating does not account for electricity utilized in calculating the efficiency rating. For some reason, electricity is not viewed as energy? Anyway...
The NG over all saving for five month had been ~11%; conversely, electricity cost increased by ~5% for the same time period, giving an overall saving of ~5.5% for the utility bills. There's no question that the savings is there, not to the level emphasized by pros, but it is certainly there.
The image does not show that temperature had been set to 70F for the day and set back for the night to 68F.
As the outdoor temperature decreased during this five month period, more and more times the boiler's frost protection (32-37F) had been activated. During the month of February, the frost protection had been activated 60-70% of the times. This "feature" is probably single handedly responsibly for most of both energy source utilization increase.
The frost protection "feature" draws 160-170W when activated, observed via the UPS and "Kill-a Watt" devices. It is questionable, if it makes sense to activate this feature for indoor installation when the outdoor temperature falls to 32F or below. Bringing in the low temperature outdoor air via the intake pipe will lower the internal boiler temperature rather quickly, that triggers firing up the boiler. I did not want to shut off this feature during the first winter season, but it'll be off by the end of this year.
Maybe my research on boilers should have been done prior to selecting a boiler. With the given 70 years hold house, CI and basedboard radiators' limited heating surfaces, average at best insulation, etc., a non-condensing boiler would probably had been a better choice. Based on what I know now, I would have started with improving insulation, increase the heating surface and the select the boiler based on the needs.
Over all, I do like the comfort, unlimited DHW and low operation sound this boiler has. The latter one had been one of the deciding factor selecting this boiler, since the boiler room is part of the ranch style house that has no basement.
Clik here to view.
Based on the first five month of operational cost, there's certainly a decrease in the overall cost of the utility bills. The savings is greater for the NG, the only one that the energy efficiency rating is calculated by. The rating does not account for electricity utilized in calculating the efficiency rating. For some reason, electricity is not viewed as energy? Anyway...
The NG over all saving for five month had been ~11%; conversely, electricity cost increased by ~5% for the same time period, giving an overall saving of ~5.5% for the utility bills. There's no question that the savings is there, not to the level emphasized by pros, but it is certainly there.
The image does not show that temperature had been set to 70F for the day and set back for the night to 68F.
As the outdoor temperature decreased during this five month period, more and more times the boiler's frost protection (32-37F) had been activated. During the month of February, the frost protection had been activated 60-70% of the times. This "feature" is probably single handedly responsibly for most of both energy source utilization increase.
The frost protection "feature" draws 160-170W when activated, observed via the UPS and "Kill-a Watt" devices. It is questionable, if it makes sense to activate this feature for indoor installation when the outdoor temperature falls to 32F or below. Bringing in the low temperature outdoor air via the intake pipe will lower the internal boiler temperature rather quickly, that triggers firing up the boiler. I did not want to shut off this feature during the first winter season, but it'll be off by the end of this year.
Maybe my research on boilers should have been done prior to selecting a boiler. With the given 70 years hold house, CI and basedboard radiators' limited heating surfaces, average at best insulation, etc., a non-condensing boiler would probably had been a better choice. Based on what I know now, I would have started with improving insulation, increase the heating surface and the select the boiler based on the needs.
Over all, I do like the comfort, unlimited DHW and low operation sound this boiler has. The latter one had been one of the deciding factor selecting this boiler, since the boiler room is part of the ranch style house that has no basement.
