I am replacing a discontinued Weil Mclain VHE, Series 3 boiler, 100,000 BTU. It is a LP-fueled, 2-zone residential baseboard hot water system. My plan is to leave the existing loops in place and replace the VHE with the GV90+4 boiler, 84,000 BTU. I would have a professional install the unit, but for whatever reason, all 4 contractors I have contacted for quotes on the boiler w/installation have been unresponsive. My contingency is to understand the installation, in case I have to order the GV90+ on line and do it myself. My question relates to information from the GV90 manual I accessed online. The supply to the system looks to be a stainless steel tube, 1". The manual legend indicates 1" NPT, but the photo appears to show an un-threaded stainless tube. Does anyone have experience with this boiler and what fixture that would connect the boiler output to the system? I want to ensure no special tools, such as those required for some solderless connectors are needed for the GV90 boiler. Thanks in advance for information.
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GV90+4 Installation
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Aquastat - Oil -Gas Boiler Interchangable?
Hello - I have a Crown CXE-5 (1997 vintage) gas boiler (150k BTU/HR, not high effiecency). I recently noticed the Honeywell L7224U1002 Aquastat a tech installed over a year ago is specified for use it oil boilers. Should I be concerned? My mechanical aquastat had failed.
Also, when scrolling through the digital settings on the Aquastat I noted the low temp cutoff is turned off. Is this correct? The high point is 199 and the differential is 10. I have 4 zones serving 3 baseboard loops and an indirect DHW tank. One circulator. I live in the northeast. I had the unit cleaned/inspected last fall with no issues. I have read some threads,with no firm conclusions, regarding cold start vs maintaining the boiler warm. I should note that the boiler temp never seems to exceed 140 and can linger in the 110 -120 range for very long periods in the winter (likely related to my system's inability to maintain the house temp during the winter).
Thank you.
Also, when scrolling through the digital settings on the Aquastat I noted the low temp cutoff is turned off. Is this correct? The high point is 199 and the differential is 10. I have 4 zones serving 3 baseboard loops and an indirect DHW tank. One circulator. I live in the northeast. I had the unit cleaned/inspected last fall with no issues. I have read some threads,with no firm conclusions, regarding cold start vs maintaining the boiler warm. I should note that the boiler temp never seems to exceed 140 and can linger in the 110 -120 range for very long periods in the winter (likely related to my system's inability to maintain the house temp during the winter).
Thank you.
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Dunkirk boiler: PWB-6D
Turned out thermostat on for the winter and the only thing the boiler does is make this clicking sound. There is no pilot light and it's a model that's supposed to be an automatic light. Any ideas what it might be and might anyone have the manual?
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Combustion question
Approximate readings before and after gas pressure was adjusted. What's better?
Before
Gas pressure 3.6
Stack 295
Co2 6.34
O2 9.2
Co 9ppm
After
Gas pressure 4.25
Stack 325
Co2 7.4
O2 8
Co 10ppm
This is an 80% gas furnace. Isn't it a better burn to try and get the Co2 up closer to 7.5 - 8 as long as the co, stack, etc is at exceptable numbers? I was concerned about the gas pressure being to high, but if all the other readings are good, seems fine to me?
Thoughts, thank you.
Before
Gas pressure 3.6
Stack 295
Co2 6.34
O2 9.2
Co 9ppm
After
Gas pressure 4.25
Stack 325
Co2 7.4
O2 8
Co 10ppm
This is an 80% gas furnace. Isn't it a better burn to try and get the Co2 up closer to 7.5 - 8 as long as the co, stack, etc is at exceptable numbers? I was concerned about the gas pressure being to high, but if all the other readings are good, seems fine to me?
Thoughts, thank you.
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Triangle Tube Cold Feet
Hi All,
Newbie here, residential consumer. I have used the search function, but didn't find what I was looking for. I'm very close to installing a Triangle Prestige Trimax Solo Series 110 boiler with a TT indirect hot water heater, but getting concerned with many negative reviews and stories (and a class action lawsuit) I'm reading online. I am not one to believe everything I read and I feel like I did as much research and outreach as I could, but I am concerned as I'm about to make a $10,000+ investment. Their 1 year parts and labor and 10 year heat exchanger warranty seems more or less inline with other high efficiency manufacturers, but it seems they suffer an undue amount of bad press, despite a handful of first hand stories I've personally heard (albeit installs were within the last few years only).
As I was soliciting proposals from competent installers, I got everything from the old timers/old guard berating the new technology and advising me to go the "dumbed down" route to technology adopters advocating higher efficiency units, so it was very difficult to make an informed decision apples to apples. I ended up going the Triangle Tube route because of these first hand viewpoints that seemed reliable and without bias, but was hardly scientific.
I welcome words of caution and/or consensus on my decision. Sincere appreciation in advance.
FYI: 2500 SqFT colonial in New England with existing natural gas.
jtz
Newbie here, residential consumer. I have used the search function, but didn't find what I was looking for. I'm very close to installing a Triangle Prestige Trimax Solo Series 110 boiler with a TT indirect hot water heater, but getting concerned with many negative reviews and stories (and a class action lawsuit) I'm reading online. I am not one to believe everything I read and I feel like I did as much research and outreach as I could, but I am concerned as I'm about to make a $10,000+ investment. Their 1 year parts and labor and 10 year heat exchanger warranty seems more or less inline with other high efficiency manufacturers, but it seems they suffer an undue amount of bad press, despite a handful of first hand stories I've personally heard (albeit installs were within the last few years only).
As I was soliciting proposals from competent installers, I got everything from the old timers/old guard berating the new technology and advising me to go the "dumbed down" route to technology adopters advocating higher efficiency units, so it was very difficult to make an informed decision apples to apples. I ended up going the Triangle Tube route because of these first hand viewpoints that seemed reliable and without bias, but was hardly scientific.
I welcome words of caution and/or consensus on my decision. Sincere appreciation in advance.
FYI: 2500 SqFT colonial in New England with existing natural gas.
jtz
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Weil Mcclain cga gold + Nest
The temperature went down yesterday so I started thinking to turn on my heat. I purchased the apartment 2 months ago in small walkup building. I noticed that each unit has his own boiler WeilMcclain cga gold. Also my unit has Honeywell t87 with mercury. In the wall I see only 2 wires (black and white) I wanted to install Nest but I realized that I need "c wire" so I put some simple programmerable thermostat that runs on bateries.
First of all I would like to start the heat but Im not sure can I simple turn on the heat on thermostat or I have to go to the basement and turn on something before I turn on thermostat? Please note that Im foreigner that has never dealt with gas, boilers and thermostat.
Once Im sure that everything is working seamlessly I would like to install the Nest. Probably I can plug in the wire from ac 24v transformer into the C
It would be great if someone can tell me how to run the heat. Some tips on Nest wiring are welcome as well
Thank you very much
First of all I would like to start the heat but Im not sure can I simple turn on the heat on thermostat or I have to go to the basement and turn on something before I turn on thermostat? Please note that Im foreigner that has never dealt with gas, boilers and thermostat.
Once Im sure that everything is working seamlessly I would like to install the Nest. Probably I can plug in the wire from ac 24v transformer into the C
It would be great if someone can tell me how to run the heat. Some tips on Nest wiring are welcome as well
Thank you very much
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Microbubble Air Eliminator
Does anyone make an air eliminator with a union connection like they do for fill valves or mixing valves. It sure would make servicing/replacement a lot easier, no?
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Standby Generator-Tips to hire and install it right
I looked into standby generators a few years ago and got spooked by all the variables - gas service pressure, gas pipe size, meter capacity, building code requirements etc - and backed away because of all the complexity and potential "surprises" in the process. I want to take another stab. Please help! I currently have NG supply for furnace (baseboard heat), 40 gal hot water heater, and stovetop. House is 2500 sq ft. Current gas meter is 250 capacity. The gas line from street is probably pre-1960s. What are the key questions and issues I need to ask any licensed professional I might hire? Is there a sequence to generator installation? My thanks in advance.
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Buderus GB142 doesn't power on
We've got a Buderus GB142 that was installed in 2007 or so. It was chilly yesterday so I turned the heat on for the first time this season, and after 15 minutes, no heat. So I went down to the basement and see that there doesn't appear to be any power on the GB142's control panel, nor to the AM10 Outdoor reset.
I flipped the main power switch next to the boiler off and then on, no change. I checked the outlet that's in the same junction box (same power source) and there's power to the outlet. Yes, the main power switch on the control panel is On.
In the past, we had some issues with the outdoor reset shutting off, but this was due to a loose control wire from the GB142. Tightening that fixed the intermittent problem.
So, Questions:
- If the AM10 is dead, will that cause the GB142 to not power on at all? Nothing is lighting up on the GB142 control panel.
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- If there's power to the boiler from the main shutoff switch, what might cause it to not power on at all? Faulty control panel? An internal fuse or breaker somewhere?
I'm handy with electrical and electronic stuff so I have no problem swapping parts out, but I don't want to buy stuff I don't need. Any guidance on where to start troubleshooting this would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I flipped the main power switch next to the boiler off and then on, no change. I checked the outlet that's in the same junction box (same power source) and there's power to the outlet. Yes, the main power switch on the control panel is On.
In the past, we had some issues with the outdoor reset shutting off, but this was due to a loose control wire from the GB142. Tightening that fixed the intermittent problem.
So, Questions:
- If the AM10 is dead, will that cause the GB142 to not power on at all? Nothing is lighting up on the GB142 control panel.
-
- If there's power to the boiler from the main shutoff switch, what might cause it to not power on at all? Faulty control panel? An internal fuse or breaker somewhere?
I'm handy with electrical and electronic stuff so I have no problem swapping parts out, but I don't want to buy stuff I don't need. Any guidance on where to start troubleshooting this would be appreciated.
Thanks!
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Sealing combustion test holes on pvc
what are options for properly sealing combustion test holes on high eff.boilers/furnaces after taking tests in the pvc venting. Seems like most boilers have provisions built in but some do not and condensing furnaces almost never do.
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Oversized Boiler
I converted from Oil to heat last year and the plumber installed a Williamson GSA‑250 Complete 250,000 BTU Steam Boiler. It seems like it is way oversized. My was built in the 1920's and is 2,500 square feet with poor insulation. I plan on insulating my house and am wondering if this boiler is oversized and if it is worth replacing? Also being that the boiler probably runs for less time because the home heats up quicker, would I really be saving money by replacing it?
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IPhone heating control
I have a Vokera Compact SE Combi Boiler controlled by a Honeywell ST9100A - because of reasons of disability I would like to turn the heating on or off remotely by using my Iphone what must I do to achieve this please?
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Buderus GB142 radiator water too hot?
I just replaced the fan in my GB 142 due to a 3C/217 error. Its 55F outside and the water is heating to 135 before the thermostat stopped calling for heat. This seems high to me so I checked the return line and it was hot as well ~94F. Does this sound right?
System: 3 zones with GB-142/24 with outdoor reset. Its 10 years old and has been perfect up to now.
System: 3 zones with GB-142/24 with outdoor reset. Its 10 years old and has been perfect up to now.
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Is there anyone in newport news VA who services a Buderus GB-142 wall mound mod/con boiler?
I would love some help on this.
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These are straight tees - no scoops or such to direct water?
2-1/2 mains, single pipe converted gravity system.
I'd like to know because straight tees mean, I think, that the radiators are supplied purely from gravity flow off the main; and also that radiators depend on some stratification of "hot" and "not so hot" water in the main. Which means that flow rate in the main s/b kept quite slow. Some prior threads pointed this out and it looks like it applies to my system.
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If the radiators do run on gravity, does anybody have ideas about how fast the flow in the main can be? I think it would be better to keep a more even temperature across the system, supply to return, and that would mean boosting the gpm in the main. (Insulating, too. All in good time,) I have a huge delta between system input and return - greater than 40*F. ; this is at 135*F. system supply. I'd like to figure out if a "quicker" pump could help help that. That would lower the delta across the boiler and, I think, keep temperature swings at the emitters a smaller. The present 35*F diff at the boiler (to allow a burn of 5 minutes or more) injects a "hump" of hot water into the system every 15 minutes or so. Seems like 35*F. change would be noticeable to the occupants. Or maybe because of the way the gravity flow (I think) works in the radiators it would average out and nobody would notice and I don't have to do a thing... Be nice.
Right now I'm looking for tables showing the flow speed in different pipe sizes for any particular gpm. I thought I had a handle on the present pumping rate - about 9gpm through the boiler - based on specs about temperature rise but further thought looking at the pump curve I'm not at all sure. The BG Series 100 curves say about 28gpm at 3.5' head (which several old threads here say is what old gravity systems present a pump). That would be in the 1" pipe at the pump which would translate to something less in the main; and maybe something more in the boiler which uses a 3/4" coil. But I haven't seen any spec for the head presented by the Burkay boiler and I've been through a lot of documents. The prior pump was a big old PR series which the curve says actually pumps a little less - say 26gpm. But if I understand the curve right, the PR doesn't care much about head, it just pumps somewhere in the 22-27 gpm range regardless.
Thanks for any comment.
Rufus
I'd like to know because straight tees mean, I think, that the radiators are supplied purely from gravity flow off the main; and also that radiators depend on some stratification of "hot" and "not so hot" water in the main. Which means that flow rate in the main s/b kept quite slow. Some prior threads pointed this out and it looks like it applies to my system.
If the radiators do run on gravity, does anybody have ideas about how fast the flow in the main can be? I think it would be better to keep a more even temperature across the system, supply to return, and that would mean boosting the gpm in the main. (Insulating, too. All in good time,) I have a huge delta between system input and return - greater than 40*F. ; this is at 135*F. system supply. I'd like to figure out if a "quicker" pump could help help that. That would lower the delta across the boiler and, I think, keep temperature swings at the emitters a smaller. The present 35*F diff at the boiler (to allow a burn of 5 minutes or more) injects a "hump" of hot water into the system every 15 minutes or so. Seems like 35*F. change would be noticeable to the occupants. Or maybe because of the way the gravity flow (I think) works in the radiators it would average out and nobody would notice and I don't have to do a thing... Be nice.
Right now I'm looking for tables showing the flow speed in different pipe sizes for any particular gpm. I thought I had a handle on the present pumping rate - about 9gpm through the boiler - based on specs about temperature rise but further thought looking at the pump curve I'm not at all sure. The BG Series 100 curves say about 28gpm at 3.5' head (which several old threads here say is what old gravity systems present a pump). That would be in the 1" pipe at the pump which would translate to something less in the main; and maybe something more in the boiler which uses a 3/4" coil. But I haven't seen any spec for the head presented by the Burkay boiler and I've been through a lot of documents. The prior pump was a big old PR series which the curve says actually pumps a little less - say 26gpm. But if I understand the curve right, the PR doesn't care much about head, it just pumps somewhere in the 22-27 gpm range regardless.
Thanks for any comment.
Rufus
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Gas Boiler - Inadequate Heating - Seeking Feedback/Solution
Hello – As the weather is beginning to get cold in the northeast I realize that I need to finally address a heating problem that we lived with last winter and quickly forgot about as the weather improved. Unfortunately, just like any problem, it is not going to get better by itself. Hopefully, the experts on this site can provide me some guidance.
Problem - Our boiler cannot maintain the indoor temperature above 65F when the outdoor temperature is below the mid-20’s. When the temperature drops to the low-teens, the maximum indoor is in the 60F area. The boiler will nearly run continuously and the boiler output temp never seems to get up to 120F on these cold days, which then doesn’t offer much heat capacity for the baseboards, especially near the end of the loops. This is not a recent issue, the heating system has been inadequate over at least the last few years, but seems to be getting worse.
System overview
• Crown CXE-5 150K BTU “input”, circa 1997, Nat Gas, conventional open combustion, power exhaust via 3” pipe through foundation wall, combustion air from basement (not tightly sealed)
• Four zones, one circ pump
• The aquastat is set at 190 (hi), 10 (diff), no low limit. No ODR.
• Tech inspected recently and found no obvious issues – outdoor temp in upper 50s. No air in system.
• Serviced/cleaned/inspected last fall – no issues except replaced leaking relief valve
• Aquastat replaced two years ago due to failure
House
Two story colonial, unfinished walk out basement, 3800 SF, built in 1998, northern NJ. Two story entry/foyer. 2x4 construction. Medium air-tightness. Bought house in 2006.
Previous owners had large wood stove in FR – might have masked poor performance of heating system. Heat loss calc per Slant/fin app: ~100K BTU. Heavy use of gas fireplace makes heat loss estimate via gas use challenging (seen posters provide analysis using gas bill and degree days).
Zones
(1) indirect hot water (41 gal, Amtrol),
(2) 1st flr (105ft baseboard, 230ft loop), main living area (~2,100 SF)
(3) 2nd flr (63ft baseboard, 200ft loop), 3BR/2Bath
(4) 2nd flr (16ft baseboard, 110t loop) guest BR/laundry (doors typically shut w/ thermostat set at 62F).
Aside from my boiler potentially not operating property my thought is the first floor loop is too long. Includes 30ft of piping in unheated crawl space to supply family rm (350SF). 20ft baseboard. Floor and pipes are insulated. Three exterior walls, over 50% windows, 12ft ceiling, 8-40K BTU sealed gas fireplace.
Potential Solution – Replace boiler with high efficiency model. Add second zone to 1st floor or remove HW baseboard from family room and replace with electric (we primarily heat the FR with a sealed gas fireplace) – would remove 20ft baseboard and 70ft from overall loop. Concern is if we have the FR area on a separate zone, that zone will not run very often and the water in pipes will get very cold. Electronic heat option seems like a sub-optimal solution.
Once again, any insights/suggestions would be greatly appreciated before spending 10K on a new system. I received two quotes last year – neither performed a heat loss calc. If helpful, I can post pics of my system – not sure what items would be of interest.
Thank you.
Problem - Our boiler cannot maintain the indoor temperature above 65F when the outdoor temperature is below the mid-20’s. When the temperature drops to the low-teens, the maximum indoor is in the 60F area. The boiler will nearly run continuously and the boiler output temp never seems to get up to 120F on these cold days, which then doesn’t offer much heat capacity for the baseboards, especially near the end of the loops. This is not a recent issue, the heating system has been inadequate over at least the last few years, but seems to be getting worse.
System overview
• Crown CXE-5 150K BTU “input”, circa 1997, Nat Gas, conventional open combustion, power exhaust via 3” pipe through foundation wall, combustion air from basement (not tightly sealed)
• Four zones, one circ pump
• The aquastat is set at 190 (hi), 10 (diff), no low limit. No ODR.
• Tech inspected recently and found no obvious issues – outdoor temp in upper 50s. No air in system.
• Serviced/cleaned/inspected last fall – no issues except replaced leaking relief valve
• Aquastat replaced two years ago due to failure
House
Two story colonial, unfinished walk out basement, 3800 SF, built in 1998, northern NJ. Two story entry/foyer. 2x4 construction. Medium air-tightness. Bought house in 2006.
Previous owners had large wood stove in FR – might have masked poor performance of heating system. Heat loss calc per Slant/fin app: ~100K BTU. Heavy use of gas fireplace makes heat loss estimate via gas use challenging (seen posters provide analysis using gas bill and degree days).
Zones
(1) indirect hot water (41 gal, Amtrol),
(2) 1st flr (105ft baseboard, 230ft loop), main living area (~2,100 SF)
(3) 2nd flr (63ft baseboard, 200ft loop), 3BR/2Bath
(4) 2nd flr (16ft baseboard, 110t loop) guest BR/laundry (doors typically shut w/ thermostat set at 62F).
Aside from my boiler potentially not operating property my thought is the first floor loop is too long. Includes 30ft of piping in unheated crawl space to supply family rm (350SF). 20ft baseboard. Floor and pipes are insulated. Three exterior walls, over 50% windows, 12ft ceiling, 8-40K BTU sealed gas fireplace.
Potential Solution – Replace boiler with high efficiency model. Add second zone to 1st floor or remove HW baseboard from family room and replace with electric (we primarily heat the FR with a sealed gas fireplace) – would remove 20ft baseboard and 70ft from overall loop. Concern is if we have the FR area on a separate zone, that zone will not run very often and the water in pipes will get very cold. Electronic heat option seems like a sub-optimal solution.
Once again, any insights/suggestions would be greatly appreciated before spending 10K on a new system. I received two quotes last year – neither performed a heat loss calc. If helpful, I can post pics of my system – not sure what items would be of interest.
Thank you.
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Bryant. 90% 10 years old
I have removed the t stat wires from board and manually jumped r and white to eliminate the t stat all together and now when I hold down safety switch and furnace will do its 60 second start up fan procedure and when it shuts down and goes in to heat mode the inducer motor will not come but I can here the click meaning the board is calling for the inducer to come on but it does not, well it has once and cycled 3 times but would not continue to maintain operation. And now it's doing the same thing and induceur won't come on.
What I have done for trouble shooting
Cleaned the condensate box and blew it out it was clogged so was a good procedure any way
I then I checked the venting and was free of debris and obstructions so I left disconnected at furnace to make sure 100%
I then unplugged the inducer motor from the connection point and ran operation and checked for 120v but have nothing, so I am curious if the board Is sending 120v to inducer if not is it the board?
Without inducer getting power I have nothing to further diagnose.
If you have any tips please feel free to send my way thanks
What I have done for trouble shooting
Cleaned the condensate box and blew it out it was clogged so was a good procedure any way
I then I checked the venting and was free of debris and obstructions so I left disconnected at furnace to make sure 100%
I then unplugged the inducer motor from the connection point and ran operation and checked for 120v but have nothing, so I am curious if the board Is sending 120v to inducer if not is it the board?
Without inducer getting power I have nothing to further diagnose.
If you have any tips please feel free to send my way thanks
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Weil mclain gv90
What are some things to look for when thermal fuse failed . Inducer started and ran ok and vent seems clear
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gas meter pipe size
I think i know the answer but am hoping i dont. just tied in two new risers which was a bear having to cut in and use left right nipples 4 inches apart. dont worry i kept gauges on all four sections simultaneously while i worked to make sure if they ever lost pressure id know where the problem was everything held 3 lbs the whole week i was working on it.I bought this 100 year old house which i think was previously used as the museum of worst construction practices and how to kill people. The meter was actually hanging from a vent line with a old rope when i closed. It was so scary i could hardly bare to look at it but did manage to hang the vent with clevises instead of friction the clevis to upside down clevis down to the pipes on either side of meter. it was still to scary to look at but had to shut down the gas and swing it out of way for the first test gauge to get my work done. which is when i realized the line coming in was 1 1/2 then reduced to 1 1/4 for no apparent reason ok no bigggie, because the 20" run from the meter to boiler room which i had to cut into was a new run of 1 1/4 put in while i was in contract because stupid owner stupidly shut off heat to save money on empty building despite my protests and when pipes burst and wanting the gas turned back on the 100 year old painted pipes failed utility test and he had to pay to re run that line so i could get a loan, i found a licensed contractor for a good price since a permit and inspection were then required. what i never noticed was the 1 1/4 pipes on both sides of meter are bushed down to 3/4 where a special S shaped fitting that has a gasketed compression on one end for meter attach. my question is isnt that reduction to 3/4 on both sides of meter effectively giving me 3/4 service or is there some special law of venturi for gas meters and i dont need to make the utility repipe the damn meter head and recap and test the whole house all over again it would be nice to get it done properly but of course that work was done by the utility to begin with which is scary.
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Getting Ready for Gas in Central CT
Greetings.
I'm a homeowner in central CT. Have been lurking here over the years and have learned a lot as I've undertaken several additions at my home (so thank you!). We currently have oil heat, but gas will be installed in our neighborhood this fall. I'm hoping you all can point me to sources so I can educate myself for the process that will come.
Here are the basics:
1. House: 1975 developer built colonial in central CT. Three additions over the past 17 years. House now totals 3100 sf. Attic has spray foam under the roof deck. All windows have been replaced, so fairly tight envelope overall for a house of this vintage.
2. Heating system: Weil-McClain 68 boiler, 23 years old. Weil-McClain AFG burner. Four baseboard zones, plus fifth zone heated by hot water from boiler circulating through air handler (recent addition where baseboards wouldn't work). Hot water (2.5 baths) is from boiler coil. I've been burning ~800 gallons of oil a year.
3. Family: Me, wife, 3 teenagers. Surprisingly, coil has handled shower load well, but not if two showers need to run simultaneously. Wife and I plan to stay here a while, even as kids depart for college and beyond over next 4 years.
4. Other: I have a propane tank running kitchen range, fireplace and gas grill. During a recent addition, I had these piped to handle gas because I knew it was a possibility.
Given the age of my heating plant (and the fact my oil co. told me two years ago that it was approaching the end of the line), plus the propane appliances, it seems to me a no-brainer to switch to gas. I could also regain some basement space by installing a wall hanging boiler and losing the oil tank.
I have not yet had any contractors in to take a look. I want to be reasonably educated first. Have not had any heat loss calcs done, so I know it's too soon to be spec'ing a system. A few neighbors have started getting quotes, and they have been all over the lot (combi systems, indirect HW, brands, etc)
One thing I have learned reading your threads is that choosing a knowledgeable contractor is paramount. I feel I have to be somewhat knowledgeable myself to make that happen..
My initial questions:
-Any big reasons NOT to switch to gas?
-Where should I start? Any articles or threads you can recommend I read?
-Thoughts on high-efficiency systems vs. regular efficiency?
-Considerations for hot water options (indirect, combi, etc)?
-Any brands to avoid? (I've read that contractor/brand familiarity is more important than brand alone).
-Any other advice?
I'm a homeowner in central CT. Have been lurking here over the years and have learned a lot as I've undertaken several additions at my home (so thank you!). We currently have oil heat, but gas will be installed in our neighborhood this fall. I'm hoping you all can point me to sources so I can educate myself for the process that will come.
Here are the basics:
1. House: 1975 developer built colonial in central CT. Three additions over the past 17 years. House now totals 3100 sf. Attic has spray foam under the roof deck. All windows have been replaced, so fairly tight envelope overall for a house of this vintage.
2. Heating system: Weil-McClain 68 boiler, 23 years old. Weil-McClain AFG burner. Four baseboard zones, plus fifth zone heated by hot water from boiler circulating through air handler (recent addition where baseboards wouldn't work). Hot water (2.5 baths) is from boiler coil. I've been burning ~800 gallons of oil a year.
3. Family: Me, wife, 3 teenagers. Surprisingly, coil has handled shower load well, but not if two showers need to run simultaneously. Wife and I plan to stay here a while, even as kids depart for college and beyond over next 4 years.
4. Other: I have a propane tank running kitchen range, fireplace and gas grill. During a recent addition, I had these piped to handle gas because I knew it was a possibility.
Given the age of my heating plant (and the fact my oil co. told me two years ago that it was approaching the end of the line), plus the propane appliances, it seems to me a no-brainer to switch to gas. I could also regain some basement space by installing a wall hanging boiler and losing the oil tank.
I have not yet had any contractors in to take a look. I want to be reasonably educated first. Have not had any heat loss calcs done, so I know it's too soon to be spec'ing a system. A few neighbors have started getting quotes, and they have been all over the lot (combi systems, indirect HW, brands, etc)
One thing I have learned reading your threads is that choosing a knowledgeable contractor is paramount. I feel I have to be somewhat knowledgeable myself to make that happen..
My initial questions:
-Any big reasons NOT to switch to gas?
-Where should I start? Any articles or threads you can recommend I read?
-Thoughts on high-efficiency systems vs. regular efficiency?
-Considerations for hot water options (indirect, combi, etc)?
-Any brands to avoid? (I've read that contractor/brand familiarity is more important than brand alone).
-Any other advice?
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