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Modine Hot Dawg Heater ( Fault Code 6 ) can't find the problem.

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Just installed a Hot dawg heater and can't get it to get it to stay on after it turns on , the heater goes through all of the sequence like its was intended to do but after 2 or 3 seconds after it fires it will turn of and goes through the same cycle for at least 4 more times before it gives me the code 6 , I have just about did all of the preliminary voltage checks and trouble shooting as well as replacing the fan control board and the flame rod , the pressure switch does work properly with a WC of .40 the gas valve has an output of 3.5 of WC to the manifold and the input of the gas valve is at 6.95 almost 7 WC of pressure, does anyone have any other suggestions or idea on what I am missing or over looking.
Thank you.

Lochinvar Solutions gas boiler

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I had old oil boiler replaced with Lochinvar Solutions gas boiler couple months ago. Contractor only replaced boiler. Re-used same indirect h/w tank and outdoor reset control from old boiler. Now that it has gotten cold I noticed that it runs differently than oil boiler. For example:
Today the outside air temp is 37*. When I came home from being away all day the in-side temp on thermostat was set at 64*, and I moved thermostat to 68* and went downstairs to actually monitor the boiler. Boiler ran 9 min until water temp reached 140*. Shut off for 3 min until water temp dropped to 120*. I then monitored for the next 20 min and found that boiler would kick on when water temp dropped to 120* run for about 50 seconds until temp reached 140* then shut off for about 1:30 until temp dropped back to 120*. This cycle continued until inside temp reached 68* and heat was no longer being called for. The entire time the circulator was moving water through the base board.

It just seems to me that the constant on/off of the boiler is not efficient. Is this the way the boiler is designed to run? (It runs about the same way when making hot water for indirect too.)

Laars Endurance F4 Error Restarts Periodically

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Hi Everyone, This is a combination propane boiler for heat with domestic hot water as well. While the unit is running, sometimes the burner will suddenly shut down and an F4 error code will appear on the screen. It will then wait a minute or so and start the burner again. F4 is a supply sensor error. The sensor in in the bottom of the boiler.

I thought it could be overheating and causing the shut down but the screen shows around 180 and I get around 160 on the sensor nipple. Also, the internal circulator pump does seem to be running as it is drawing .70 amps and I can hear the motor if I put a screwdriver to it and my ear. I made a video of what happens here: image

There have been a handful of times where we had cold water coming out of the faucet instead of hot but the hot kicked in after a minute or so. Not sure if that is related or not. Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks!

Amana furnace- flame sensor keeps failing about once monthly

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Hey folks, I’ve been working on Amana AMH80803BNBB furnace for the past 3 or 4 months. The furnace is from 2016. Starting this winter, about once a month we’ve been having flame sensor failure issues. We’ve cleaned the sensor, replaced it with an oem and tried a different manufacturers flame sensor. Replaced the control board as well. When the sensors fail they are testing at 0ua. When a new sensor is installed it tests around 3ua. There is not excessive dust/dirt or detergents near the furnace. Any ideas? Thanks

How long does it take for water to return from radiator once heating is turned off?

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I have steam heat. I switched on the boiler. Then I let the radiators heat. Then I switched the heat off. Waiting now for all the water to recede. How long should I wait?

Gas valve

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I am looking for a gas valve for a Cozy Heat Minitonka model
Model 55345
Serial#09-407157-08
Kozy Heat part #700-107
# on gas valve RV8310E. 2022
Thanks

Buderus 142 issues

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Unit has been fine for last 6 years but recently has been making a groaning sound when going into high heat phase (2 Stage). Quiets down when getting close to temp but then noise returns briefly when boiler stops firing. It seems like gas valve but Buderus thought it was flow issue and asked me to turn circ pump down to low setting- noise still there.
No noise when heating hot water, low heat mode.
Also sounds a little like a tea kettle the few times it's not groaning during heat cycle.
Just had a tech here but he was no help, still got charged a service call...

Trickle Sounds at Baseboard Heater

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Thanks for reading my post. Nerves are getting frayed here. :-)

I have a boiler system that just passed a clean and check last week. There is one upstairs bedroom on my second floor, one of the furthest from the basement boiler, that has a trickle sound that lasts for several minutes. It is an unused bedroom, so I'm not always in tune with the sounds, but it has been going on for a few months. I thought this was due to air in the lines as it is the most common source of noise in a baseboard system, but I bled the lines today and only got one short burst of air (less than one second - midway through the bleed).

Here are the facts:

1) The baseboard heats well and the room is warm like the rest of the house.
2) There is no moisture related evidence of a leak in the floor, walls, or downstairs ceiling - something I'd be certain to find if this was an actual leak occurring over several months
3) The noise lasts for several minutes (I have set up an audio recorder to get a more accurate measure of the intervals and lengths)
4) The sound is not unlike the tinkling sound a toilet makes when the water doesn't quite stop running (a really tiny flow) or like you are pouring a tiny stream of water into a glass with some water already in it. It sounds very clear (not muffled) and has a certain ring to it that makes me think it is flowing through the pipe.
5) The boiler is 30 years old and I'm not sure the pump was looked at as part of the clean and check.
6) All the upstairs room have some amount of gurgling noise, but they are brief (10 seconds) and don't sound anything like what is happening in the suspect bedroom.
7) The suspect bedroom has a bleeder on one end of the pipes (the top one) and what appears to be a shut off valve (the bottom one)
8) The noise stops immediately after half-closing the valve (not even one or two seconds later - immediately)
9) Today was the first time this baseboard was bled in at last 10 years (probably closer to 20). Same with opening and closing that valve.
10) The baseboard was very hot when I bled it, and started to make the trickle sound before I quit.

Since bleeding the lines today didn't solve the problem, I left a message with my regular HVAC company. I know they are booked through the month, so I may need to call somebody new.

What do you suspect is going on here?
A - A pinhole leak that is quite high up on that pipe and is somehow draining in a way that doesn't show
B - A blockage or significant corrosion on that valve preventing the flow of water
C - An issue with the circulator pump being weak
D - The baseboard needs further air bleeding (is this best done when cold or hot??)







Issues with & Replacement of Honeywell L8148E Aquastat

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We have a Honeywell L8148E that has started to act up and in.
We are planning to change it ourselves, but we have few questions:
- Actually, it stops sometimes and when the thermostat kicks in, sometimes it clicks sometimes no, we switch the power off-on, and it usually comes back for a cycle or two.
- the maximum temperature now is set to 180F
- To check whether the issue is coming from the relay, I did test T-TV it gives 24v, TV to W gives 24V as well. But nothing passed to the burner (B1-B2)

The reference indicated in the cover is only L8148E but while looking to buy a replacement I found many differents other sub references, (L8148E -1257, L8148E -1265,...) how could I know the one to buy (the transform is 24V when it works)?

Thanks for help

test ports on gas valve

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Does anyone know where to get the fittings to check the pressures on these gas valves that have the very small test ports that you remove with a 3/32" allen wrench.The thread size is less then 1/16", and i can not find any thread by barbed fittings to check the incoming or manifold pressures.thanks to all.

Burnham PVG 5A Not firing

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Hello All;
We have a Boiler that sporadically will not fire up to keep the boiler at temp. It seems to happen when the
House temp and Hot water needs are Stable for a long period of time Boiler temp goes to Zero.
If it calls for heat or hot water the boiler will fire normally and will work normally for many cycles.
Any Ideas. changed Hi limit switch , check all connections Differential switch to function correctly (ran required test) Boiler is spotless.

Any on have an Idea.

Thanks
ken

Pilot light and gas-line safety-help!

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I just had a vent-free natural gas heater installed (a wall unit). I have an old gas furnace in the basement-the installer spliced a line from the furnace gas line to the new unit, with it's own on-off switch. What I'm wondering is, should I turn the pilot light off if i will be gone for 1 or 2 days? There is a control knob on top, so I think I can manage turning it on & off. Also should I turn off the gas flow at the same time? I have never had a pilot light burning in the house, that's why I am concerned-it just seems strange to leave for the day with that flame burning. . Really, are those lights safe, in regard to fire and leaks? It's a DynaGlo unit, from Lowe's. This probably sounds paranoid, but I am really concerned about fire, and gas leaks. Thank you for any help!

Cast Iron vs Stainless Boiler

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Changing over from oil fired CI boiler with indirect DHW serving 24 rads and 2" mains. Making the switch to propane.

Getting conflicting views on CI replacement vs. stainless steel mod/con. Does one work better than the other with large CI radiators and large main pipes?

I'm hellbent on going as green as possible so I'm leaning towards high efficiency stainless mod/con, but a few installers think CI is better with this piping set up. Any opinions?

Anybody know where I can get this flame rod and electric ignitor?

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Mine are cracked and old so I wouldn't mind having some onhand for that sunday night at 10 below "no heat" call. Thanks in advance.
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Need help with combo Navien boiler please

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I have a Navien combo unit that was installed 3 years ago and has been running fine with no issues. For the past few days the temp on the thermostat has been set to 75 but reading at 65. I changed the batteries in the thermostat for good measure. The baseboard is freezing cold. Boiler is running constantly with no error codes. The display shows the "radiator heat" sign and temps as usual. I'm a single mom with not very much knowledge of this kind of stuff so i apologize in advance.
Looking forward to hearing from you. Thank you.

Replacing a radiator

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Hi everyone,

I live in an old house with old radiators. The boiler is gas and the system seems to based on hot water running to and from the radiators. One of the radiators in my living room has a leak (I looked at where the leak is coming from and it is rusted). The radiator is about 40" wide and 4" deep. I know nothing about radiators. From looking on the internet I believe that this is a cast iron, convector radiator (it is recessed in the wall). I'm attaching a picture -- am I correct that it is called a convector radiator? I have been calling around salvage places and it seems that this type of radiator is relatively uncommon. Everyone seems to be into those traditional, pretty radiators so that is what the salvage shops seem to keep in stock. I am not wedded to buying the same in kind of radiator; I just want something that will fit in that space. I have about 44" wide, 19" high, 5.5" depth to work with. Do the traditional radiators even come in dimensions like that? I know that I can buy new cast iron radiators, but it seems that they are very expensive. Any suggestions will be deeply appreciated.

Thanks.

Heating a all brick house

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Hi I bought an 5,500 sf triple brick walled old school house built in 1905 I find a lot of pros and cons on insulating the interior walls I currently have the interior walls framed out and I’m still not sure on if I should and how to insulate the walls would a raidiant barrier/foil bubble wrap work instead of using foam insulation I’m using a gas furnace and live in north West Indiana the winters can be below zero at times
There is no damage to the brick what so ever inside or out

Modulating Boiler Question

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So the minimum input of my Viessmann 100w B1HA is about 36,000 btu/h. (LP)

My Aquacoil outputs about 37,000 btu/h at 140 degree water

Is it a complete waste for me to have my heating curve set for less than 140 degrees or am I missing something? If the boiler is going to output 36,000 btu at the minimum and anything less then 140 my aquacoil won't be producing enough btu/h am I just wasting fuel?

Thank you for the help!

LAARS mini therm

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My heat boiler runs for only about 1min and reaches 180 degree water temp and automatic shuts off, after about 1:30min water temp drops to 150 degree and boiler runs again. Is this normal?

Tim’s closet

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Is this still available I can’t seem to find it.
It used to be under resources but maybe I’m doing something wrong
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